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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having boat trouble and forced to fish from beach and rocks. Having a lot of trouble with the shock leaders. That little end of line seems to eventually get caught up and I end up with a birds nest on my spinning reel. Any ideas/tips :BenNudd:

Also when should I be using a snap swivel. Is there ever a time when I can attach a lure directly to the swivel? Seems that if I attach directly to a lure, I spook fish. If I tie a 2' leader to the lure, and attach the leader to the swivel, I am really not saving any time. I have not yet hooked any thing but a Blue with a swivel involved, leader or not
 

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These are good questions and commonly asked.
The schools of thought on the shock leader.
1. Not used. Minimal hardware on the line. Less chance to fail.
2. Necessary when throwing weight and plugs. especially when distance casting.
Ideas for getting around the problem. Go to a bigger diameter rod eye tip. Use crazy glue on the knot. Tapered lines (gimmicky and expensive) Using brid to mono. Simplest and stongest knots. The key seems to be in the knots used.
Neil mackellows says this "I use a blob on the leader then a four turn grinner for casting, while for fishing either a half hitch in the leader and a four turn grinner in the main line or tie a spider hitch in the end of the main line and make the grinner with doubled line for extra strength. Anything more than a half hitch in 80lb line WILL rattle thro' the rings!"
Now short of spending some time learning those knots i have used an overhead granny knot in the main line and what amounts to a uni knot in the tag end. This one is easy to tie and will hold.

Step 1: . Tie an overhand (Granny) knot in the heavy trace material and pass your lighter main line through

Step 2: Pull the overhand knot in the heavy line tightly closed. Take four or five turns around the heavy line with the light.
Step 3: Pass the light line back through the first loop as shown. Lubricate with saliva and pull tight. Trim end to about 2mm.
Use a length of heavier nylon at the working end of your main line. The shock leader should be about 2 to 2 and half times the length of your rod. The weight of shock leader line should generally be two or three times the breaking strain of your main line.
We use what is called a "tapered" shock leader which is approximately 20 lb at one end (which attaches to the main line) and about 40 to 70 lb at the sinker end. This allows for smoother travel through the guides on your rod.

For normal surf casting a 50 pound test line for the shock leader will be enough. The length of the shock leader will depend on the rod, usually the shock leader is from 9 to 15 feet long, just make sure it goes around the reel spool about 5 times. This is to insulate the line from the stress of the cast.
Point to remember
(More than 20 feet disqualifies you from an IGFA record).
 

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The second question on the snap swivel.
1. More hardware more points of failure.
2. easy to change lures but also changes the action on the lure.

I use swivels on spoons and spinning lures to reduce line twist only. and only decent quality swivels. snap swivels have come open on me when fighting a fish. I use good quality barrell swivels for all other fishing. (and i know that offshore guys fighting sailfish marlin shark and whales use snaps that dont open but mine did. so I dont use em. lol)

They're are much more experienced guys here than I that can weigh in on the swivel question but those are my thoughts on the matter for what its worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks

Thanks, SJ. That was the knot I was using but was getting hung up, I had slightly better luck with back to back uni's. I like the superglue trick and will give it a try. If that doesn't work, I may have to go to a pole with larger guides but I hate to give up the sensitivity of that light pole.

As long as I am on the right track, I think I will stick with back to back uni knots for strength but coat them with the glue....seems like the granny has a larger profile.

Also I tend to fish with 12-15# with rubber attached directly to the line. This works well on the boat where a biggun can be chased down a bit. I fight the rock fisherman approach of 30#. My question is... with 30#, are you using a heavier leader in front of the plug, and if so how much heavier and how long? I would be comfortable using 20-30# on my 12# main, but I dont like the presentation that a 40+# leader gives. Any thoughts?
 

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I don't mean to suggest a rod change just a guide tip change.

Flourocarbon may be the answer to your leader presentation disatisfaction. It refracts light less and absorbs far less water.

Braid also is 3 to 4 times stronger than mono at the same diameter.
 
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