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Everything you want to know is here already.
Look around, read some threads, narrow it down and then ask specific questions - there will be plenty of people that will be happy to help.
 

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Striper Hunter
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I just started this year also. When I went to get my gear I brought a buddy who had experience with this type of fishing. I wanted a set up where I can feel the fish on the other end and not just overpower it. So when you go to look at rods you should hold them and see what feels comfortable to you but also one that has some good "whip" at the top so that it's not too stiff.

I got 2. One is a 10' Daiwa Sealine that has some nice action to it and is good for casting. The other is a 12' Ugly Stick that is a M/H ( medium to heavy ) action.

Both the rods are 2 piece as it makes it easier for me to travel with them this way. Rods will be rated for their action/stiffness as well as the weight range of what they can cast.

Make sure the loops are appropriate for casting. Not all loops in a rod are set up for this

I wanted versatile reels that I could fish lures with but also use live bait if need be. I ended up going with the Shimano Baitrunner 6500. I've loved them so far. But again you should seek advice and see what is best for you. Reels will also be rated for how much line they can hold depending on the type and weight of line you want.

If you're going to be in the surf and on rocks a good pair of waders and boots are important as well.

Welcome to the forum and let us know how you do
 

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I like the ugly sticks. I started last year and bought a penn captiva combo.
It didn't hold enough 20 # test and the rod could only cast out 3 lb sinkers.
So get yourself a 10 foot ugly stick that can cast out up to 6 lbs and a reel that can hold at least 225 yards of 20 pound test. You might need to haul out 6 lbs of weight to hold bottom. My other rod is a 11 foot ugly stick with a Shimano 8000D reel.
 

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Just my opinion but I would suggest to anyone starting out to learn how to fish with lures first. That usually not the way it goes because we like to take the path of least resistence. Myself included. A $50 combo from walmart will work but it truly is junk in the end. You do get what you pay for.
First season or so buy junk - then upgrade later as you become more experienced and make all the mistakes.
Check the what to buy with the first $50 thread.

Start with the rod and the ratings. Whether junk or not.
Is it rated for the line and the load it will be receiving?
(weight lure or sinker and bait) - Usually this is measured in action - and or power
http://www.stripers247.com/phpBB2/showthread.php?t=10165
Are the guides good enough to handle any braided line you want to use?
2. can the reel handle 200 yards of 20 pound monofilament line?
Is the drag operational and does the bail work properly?

3. Does the combination feel balanced?

Keep it simple and enjoy
 

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Hi, guys. I have been an avid fisherman for over 50 years. For the last 30 years or so, I have been using a 7’ or 7’6” spinning rod (currently a 7’6” St. Croix Tidemaster) paired with several different spinning reels (12-pound mono to 20-pound braid) to catch fluke, striped bass, blackfish, blue fish, weakfish, drum, snook, jacks, barracuda, red snapper, etc., from Block Island and East End (mostly Shelter Island) of LI, down the east coast (mostly Jersey shore) to the Outer Banks and Florida, as well as Mexico, Belize, and Costa Rica. I’ve been lucky to have caught some fish, and much enriched by the wonderful experiences I’ve had and the people whom I’ve met.

I am only relating this to explain that I am not a novice fisherman; however, I am not particularly knowledgeable about the latest developments in surf (spin fishing) tackle.

If possible, I would like to buy one rod whose sweet spot will cover most of the bases and would still be useful for other types of fishing from the surf. Obviously, if this is unrealistic, and if any rod would still have some deficiencies, I would add a second rod to cover the remaining bases. (Please don’t tell me that two rods won’t cover at least 90% of the lures and types of fishing from the shorelines of NJ and NY. That would be disheartening.)

Does anyone know of a chart that provides rod length, action, and strength with specific classes/types of lures? For example, is a fast action rod desirable/needed for a particular type of lure but horrible with a different type? Would a rod that is suitable for pencil popping be appropriate for all plugging? Is it absolutely true that longer rod lengths are required for longer casts? And wouldn’t a shorter, lighter outfit be more pleasant to use over many hours of casting compared to a longer, heavier one?

I have seen some information on this site but, unless it’s there and I simply overlooked it, I don’t think anyone has put it in such a way that I (and, I’m sure, many others) could then go out and make a knowledgeable buying decision. At this beginning point, I’m not so much interested in a comparison of specific rods, just general characteristics.

Thanks for your insights.
 

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BassBgood2me said:
Does anyone know of a chart that provides rod length, action, and strength with specific classes/types of lures? For example, is a fast action rod desirable/needed for a particular type of lure but horrible with a different type? Would a rod that is suitable for pencil popping be appropriate for all plugging? Is it absolutely true that longer rod lengths are required for longer casts? And wouldn't a shorter, lighter outfit be more pleasant to use over many hours of casting compared to a longer, heavier one?
The answer to every question is yes.

I dont think two rods can do it.
But you could use only two based on light surf and high surf.
For high surf - A GSB series lamiglas rod that is 11 foot and covers 1 to 4 ounces has a backbone to stop a big fish and will work pencils, plugs, tins, heavier bucktails and big surf.
A Soft tip rod is best for pencils but horrible for eels. Your second rod would have to be a compromise.

You probably would want a 9 footer for light bucktails and a ten footer, and maybe a bait rod and an s glass rod for eeling.
You need something slower and stronger to toss eels without ripping the hook on the cast.

Considerations -
Light Surf, High Surf, Bucktailing, Plugging, eeling
The rods actions - guides - weight
The most expensive rod you own is the one you never use.

these are composites of other threads

E glass -- Where toughness, durability and cost are factors
S glass -- casting rods for light line and lures
Graphite -- the next step up from s glass but more prone to breakage than fiberglass
Composite -- combination of glass and graphite

Here is a link to an article with a somewhat decent explanation.
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/rodselection.html

Action
Extra Fast: Flex in the upper 1/4 of the rod blank
Fast: Flex in the upper 1/3 of the rod blank
Moderate: Flex in the upper 1/2 of the rod blank
Slow: Flex is from the lower 1/3 of the rod blank to the tip

Faster power means the rod 'shuts off' faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don't have to move the rod as far on the hookset to get into the stiffer part of the blank.

Power
Ultralight
Light
Medium Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance
Medium Heavy
Heavy

- Fuji Hardloy guides - Silicon carbide, or SiC, is usually considered the best material today. It offers a super smooth surface for less friction on the line during the cast and the retrieve. Less friction means longer casts and less heat.

The chart is a good idea worth working on.
What you will find mostly is opinions on rods manufacturers and some discussion on sticks for certain applications.
I will put something together with my limited knowledge of the subject and the builders can expand on it. anyone else?
 

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Striper Hunter
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Last summer i built my first rod and it seems to cover 80% of my fishing. I did a Lamiglass XRA1203(RON ARRA) 10' 12-20lbs. 7/8-21/2. I throw 3/4 oz. to 3 oz. no problem. I wrapped Fuji Alconite guides on it. They're 40% lighter than SIC's and smaller in mass and they go up to 50mm so no wire guide to complete the set. Mudhole has this blank in Liquidation for $109.00. Cost me $200.00 to build. Blank, guides,thread, reel plate, cork tape, butt end. Next project is a Lamiglass GSB1321L and M. Nothing like fishing a rod you put together!:a_goodjob:
 

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Thanks, Striper Jim, for such a cogent reply. The link to Tackle Warehouse's "Selecting the Right Rod" was illuminating. Although its focus was freshwater bass fishing, the principles it outlined were obviously transferable to saltwater surf fishing. And, for me, the information was reassuring - I have heard/read it before and am glad that my (otherwise) poor memory has not again failed me.

You recommend an 11-foot GSB series lamiglas rod that covers 1 to 4 ounces for pencils, plugs, tins, heavier bucktails and big surf. Thank you for that suggestion. Is there anything specific about the 11-foot GSB series lami that you think is unique to that rod? What other rod might you suggest would be equal/comparable to the GSB lami? (Also, are you suggesting a blank or a finished rod? [I am not a rod builder]). Lastly, if you are suggesting a soft tip for pencils, does the 11-foot GSB lami come with that configuration?

For a second rod, would a 9-footer be more versatile than a 10-footer for light bucktailing? Wouldn't the 9-footer be better suited for throwing a wide variety of lighter lures?

I certainly will take your word regarding the Fuji Hardloy guides (Silicon carbide, or SiC), no matter what rod I purchase.

Any comments anyone would like to add would be very much appreciated.
 

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Is there anything specific about the 11-foot GSB series lami that you think is unique to that rod? What other rod might you suggest would be equal/comparable to the GSB lami? (Also, are you suggesting a blank or a finished rod? [I am not a rod builder]). Lastly, if you are suggesting a soft tip for pencils, does the 11-foot GSB lami come with that configuration?

For a second rod, would a 9-footer be more versatile than a 10-footer for light bucktailing? Wouldn't the 9-footer be better suited for throwing a wide variety of lighter lures?
The surf and jetty series has a soft tip will do double duty with plugs and is factory built.
The graphite rods are lighter than the glass rods a consideration for arm and shoulder fatigue.
Its easier to work a pencil with a longer rod.

A nine footer and a 10 footer are good choices for most applications. The 11 footer makes it easier in big surf.

http://www.lamiglas.com/pf_surf.php
 

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Hi, I have an 11 foot lamiglas surfking rod. I have some bait runners that match up well with it, for chunking and natural bait. I want to buy a spinning rod for it to plug with or to use with buck tails. I like the quantum spinning cabo's and bocas, but how heavy should I go. Should I stay under 24 ozs and use braid, or is it okay to ger the pts 70 which is about 29 ounces and go with mono. Is that to heavy of a reel, will it be tiring. Thanks for the feed back.
 

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the cabo 50 is as big as you will wanna go. the 40 is still okay. spool is not all that large but 30# braid fits ample enough line. and since you are beginning to boat as well, that reel is ideal for plugging and eels off your boat with 20# momoi. "with another rod of course".



 

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:smile:
Thanks zimno,
I actually just picked up a 30 for the boat, and a 50 for the surf. I like chunking with bait runners, but sometimes I get restless and want to do more. Also, so many long time anglers I know say, once you learn how to use artificial lures you'll nver go back. I don't know about that, but there must be something to it, cause alot of them say it.
 

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Striper Hunter
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Should I stay under 24 ozs and use braid, or is it okay to ger the pts 70 which is about 29 ounces and go with mono. Is that to heavy of a reel, will it be tiring. Thanks for the feed back.
Stay as light as you can. 29 oz. is way too heavy! Quantum also wouldn't be my choice in the surf. Look at Stradic, Saragosa, both by Shimano or get a Penn.
 

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the stradic is like 2 bills and the saragossa is like three give or take. the cabo is maybe 150.00. and the 40 would stand up to either one of those imo. i would really like the bailess saragossa though. i think that is one overlooked reel out there. i have not cast it so i can't say it wouldn't be a better reel than the cabo but, the drag on the cabo is way too purty.. the 5500 penn is not bad till the bail wire craps out on you.



 

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I second the cabo. I use the 50 all the time.
Great for a 10 footer. Best not used around sand, but then what is.
Surf and jetties are different than shoreline, bulkheads and docks - your reel is going to get wet.
Penn 704 or 710 grease packed or zeebaas or van staal, if you can afford one.
 

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Hello All,

Thank you for this site. Very informative.I am new to the sport of Stripper fishing. I have been out 3 or 4 times only to come home empty handed. I have been trying chunks of mackrel at Pine Point. What am I doing wrong? I know its fishing and not catching, but at little success wouldn't hurt my feelings. I plan on going out a few evenings this week. Any pointers? I have 50lb tess line with a steel liter with a triangle weight and stripper hook. This could be completly wrong.

Sorry for the lack of knowledge,just trying to have some fun eat a few of those tasty fish ;)
Todd
 
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