[Yettie1]

I was wondering if anyone can help with my problem?

I have a 1989 Remote start Evinrude 40hp outboard E40ECU
VRO/lanyard are both bypassed.

Motor runs great all the time when it's running.

I get to the ramp, get it fired, take off, 20 minute ride, get 1 mile off shore, shut it off, fish for 30-40 minutes.
Try to start it up and won't start.
(This has already happened to me once about 5 weeks ago, brought it to the shop and he said it was a ground wire in the control unit. fixed it and it's run great since until the other day)

Get towed in, wait about a half hour, try it a few times and finally fires up.

Get back to the ramp area, fish a little while, starts up, take the boat out.

Get home, try to start it, won't start.

Plenty of battery, plenty of fuel, primed bulb, cleaned plugs, getting fuel.

won't start.

ANY idea's, have you ever had the same problem and what was the answer?

All replies appreciated, Thanks!

 

[BACKBAYJ]

My starter did that before it totally fried.

 

[JakeF]

I can't help, but your post did raise one question in my mind that I'm sure would be critical to the diagnosis. When you say it "won't start", do you mean that it cranks but won't fire up, or do you mean that it doesn't crank at all?

 

[Mark P]

Another thing to check is your fuel. If it it is turning over but won't fire you may have an issue with you intake being clogged particularly if your motor uses a carb.

Newer gas is loaded with ethanol which is a major PITA for small engines particularly if they are not used all the time. What happens is the carb develops a coating on the inside that wreaks major havoc. If you are running two stroke it should be far less of a problem but if your motor is four stroke. Chances are your carb is coated up and the float is getting stuck not allowing fuel to get by. Worth looking into maybe. If you are running a four stroke I would use fuel stabilizer on every fill up.

 

[Yettie1]

Yes, it cranks over normally and just won't fire up.

I can't help, but your post did raise one question in my mind that I'm sure would be critical to the diagnosis. When you say it "won't start", do you mean that it cranks but won't fire up, or do you mean that it doesn't crank at all?

 

[Yettie1]

It is a 2 stroke. gonna go try it again now.

Another thing to check is your fuel. If it it is turning over but won't fire you may have an issue with you intake being clogged particularly if your motor uses a carb.

Newer gas is loaded with ethanol which is a major PITA for small engines particularly if they are not used all the time. What happens is the carb develops a coating on the inside that wreaks major havoc. If you are running two stroke it should be far less of a problem but if your motor is four stroke. Chances are your carb is coated up and the float is getting stuck not allowing fuel to get by. Worth looking into maybe. If you are running a four stroke I would use fuel stabilizer on every fill up.

 

[Rickski]

Has the gas tank vent been checked for blockage?

 

[Roccus]

It's time to stop guessing and diagnose...

An internal combustion engine needs the following things to run.

1) Fuel.. clean and mixed with air at the proper ratio..

2)Air.. mixed with fuel in the proper ratio

3) ignition.. timed properly

4) compression. minimum of 65 PSI to compress the air/fuel mixture..

You obviously have compression, the motor runs fine when it runs...

You have fuel delivery until the engine is shut off...the engine is not stalling, you are shutting it off.. fuel pump, fuel quality and venting all can be eliminated...

Now we are down to basics.. the engine is either flooding or has lost spark when the engine is hot..

A) todays gasolines are extremely volatile, the alcohol content causes many problems, one being rapid expansion of the fuel in the fuel bowl after a long run, forcing fuel out the jets, through the venturi into the carburetor throat often , flooding the engine... this is a very common problem..if it is the problem re build the carb. replacing the needle and seat and lower the float height by 1/32"

B) ignition... OMC ( Johnson and Evinrudes) had issues in the early 80's with their power packs, when they got hot, the ceased to operate... once they cooled down they would once again deliver a spark...

The next time this happens, remove the spark arrestor and look down the Carb. throat, you may even see gas dripping out the front of the carb..if you find nothing, reassemble the spark arrestor, remove the spark plug wire from the #1 cylinder and put and old spark plug in the wire holder, (leave the one in the engine installed to help avoid a fire) secure the plug to the BACK SIDE OF THE ENGINE, away from any fuel source, ground the spark plug shell and have a helper turn over the engine while you look for a spark.. it should be blue and bright...

There are many things that can cause intermittent problem.. these are the two most common... do things methodically and by process of elimination, you will find your problem...

 

[poundage]

best advice yet proces of elim start with the small stuff work back inlet or gas filter or your mix happy hunting let us know curious to c whats going on my motor was doing the same thing it was a combo of both running fine for now anyway good luck:smiliegrd:

 

[Yettie1]

Thank you Roc.

If I had to wager on those 2 things, I would lean more toward the fuel, only because it happened both times when I took a longer run out.

Only thing is, even this morning, it wouldn't fire up and it's been sitting cool for a couple days. Which leans me more toward the power pack as I thought this was the problem after the first time.

I did however find a guy to look at it and it's there now.

I will post again after I hear what he finds.

It's time to stop guessing and diagnose...

An internal combustion engine needs the following things to run.

1) Fuel.. clean and mixed with air at the proper ratio..

2)Air.. mixed with fuel in the proper ratio

3) ignition.. timed properly

4) compression. minimum of 65 PSI to compress the air/fuel mixture..

You obviously have compression, the motor runs fine when it runs...

You have fuel delivery until the engine is shut off...the engine is not stalling, you are shutting it off.. fuel pump, fuel quality and venting all can be eliminated...

Now we are down to basics.. the engine is either flooding or has lost spark when the engine is hot..

A) todays gasolines are extremely volatile, the alcohol content causes many problems, one being rapid expansion of the fuel in the fuel bowl after a long run, forcing fuel out the jets, through the venturi into the carburetor throat often , flooding the engine... this is a very common problem..if it is the problem re build the carb. replacing the needle and seat and lower the float height by 1/32"

B) ignition... OMC ( Johnson and Evinrudes) had issues in the early 80's with their power packs, when they got hot, the ceased to operate... once they cooled down they would once again deliver a spark...

The next time this happens, remove the spark arrestor and look down the Carb. throat, you may even see gas dripping out the front of the carb..if you find nothing, reassemble the spark arrestor, remove the spark plug wire from the #1 cylinder and put and old spark plug in the wire holder, (leave the one in the engine installed to help avoid a fire) secure the plug to the BACK SIDE OF THE ENGINE, away from any fuel source, ground the spark plug shell and have a helper turn over the engine while you look for a spark.. it should be blue and bright...

There are many things that can cause intermittent problem.. these are the two most common... do things methodically and by process of elimination, you will find your problem...