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Rods And Custom Rod Building Discuss on fishing rods & on custom rod building here. Saltwater and freshwater Rods


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  #1  
Old 05-07-2006, 11:31 PM
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Default Build up St Croix SC II 9 Wt.

I'll preface this by saying I'm not a professional rod builder... I'm just a hack, I learned from a man the was one of the best, Al Vancotteren....
Al was an artist, he painted reverse pictures on glass... very rare... he also built rods, but his love was restoring bamboo rods, he always called me a hacker,(even when we fished together) I just didnt have the patients for detail, I wished I had payed closer attention.... Al passed away one cold December day doing what he love, restoring a bamboo rod, I was at the hospital holding my first born son.... This pictoral is in his memory....

The build...

First is the assembly of parts, for this project I am building a St.Croix 9' Sc II 9 wt. rod, I bought it in it's salt water form...

You will need thread, masking tape,rod builders glue ( or thick 15 minute epoxy) razor blades, round rat tail file (or reamers) small flat file, a giude spacing chart (available from St. Croix) flex coat (or simular product) thread epoxy and thread sealer (optional)....

First step is to spine the rod, alot has been debated about the importance(or lack there of) of locating the spine,It has been my experience that it is less important on light tackle and more important on fly rods and big game tackle, it is also important on surf rods to attain maximum casting distance... as applies to the fly rod, it wii not load properly if the guides are not placed along the spine....
To locate the spine, place the tip of the rod on a rag or other soft object to protect it, and roll it around on the palm of your hand, it will "kick" to one side, marke the inside, this is the spine, mark with masking tape to aid in the placeing of the guides, the guides on a fly rod will be placed along the inside of the spine....

continued tomorrow night....
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2006, 06:48 AM
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Rocco when I fine the spline I eye ball it . like a pool stick or roll it on a hard smooth even surface. fly rods and spinning rods ,mount the guides on the inside of the curve. boat rods on the outside. Mark it with a pencil(spline)
Most rods have one spline. but sometimes they may have a double.
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Old 05-08-2006, 10:02 PM
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now that the spine has been located and marked ( I use tape) on both parts of the rod (this is a 2 piece) I then buld up the area of the reel seat with masking tape, It is important to leave 1/4 to 1/8th of an inch of space between each layer of tape for the epoxy to fill, once the blank has been built up and the reel seat test fit, mix your rod builders epoxy and cover the taped area well, being sure to fill the voids in the tape, one you slide the reel seat in place be sure that the reel seat is installed so the flat portion is in line with the spine.....
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Old 05-08-2006, 10:28 PM
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ream the foregrip with a tapered reamer or rat tailed file, it must fit fairly snug, once you have it so it fits snugly lightly sand the blank where the foregrip will set with #600 sandpaper to aid in adhesion, then cover the blank in that area with a thin layer of rod builders epoxy and install your grip

now install your tip top lightly scrape or sand the finish where the tip top will be placed to aid in adhesion, heat the hot melt glue and heat the tip slightly while hoding with a pair of pliars, then push the tip on as far as it will go, be sure that it is line with the reel seat.

once the tip top is installed mark you guide placement by measureing from the tip to each guide you intend to use and mark with a small piece of masking tape, once all the guides are marked determine how long you want your under wraps and how long you want the tag end to show once you install your guides.... now wrap your under wraps...
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Old 05-08-2006, 10:36 PM
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now continue your under wrap unti you have about 6 wraps left, then capture a loop of heavy thread ( I used A on the underwarap and C for the loop) continue wrapping 6 more turns and cut the thread, leaving about a 2' tag, thread this through the loop and pull back under the wrap, repeat on all your under wraps
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Old 05-08-2006, 10:55 PM
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If you wish you can add 2- 3 coats of color prserver at this time, most modern rod wraping threads dont need it,but will darken lightly when the finish epoxy is applied, in this case I used a light thread over a dark blank so the best results were attained by using 3 coats of thread preserver with a 1 hour drying time between coats...

Prepare your guides by filing a slight ramp on the edges and tip of the foot, this serves two pourposes, it aides in the wrapping of the thread and removes anyburs that might cut the thread.
now starting at the smallest guide center it in the middle of the under wrap, tape one end securely in place and be sure that it is aligned with the tip top, i like to tape the strppier guide( 1st guide ) in place for a referance point as well, then start your thread by wrapping it over itself and continue up the guide foot, once the thread is started you can trim off the tag end, finish in the same manner as the under wrap.
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:08 PM
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now continue with the rest of your guides, I will not go into the "how to's" of a diamond wrap I can covdr it in another post I'll post the start of it... I do not put color prserver on my guide wraps, this allows the epoxy yo penetrate the tread giving a better bond, it may darken some threads, now mix your flex coat and coat all your windings, be sure to work it into and around the guide feet, if you do not have a spinner a large card board box with V notches cut in it will suffice, but you must manualy turn the rod every ten minutes or so for the first three or four hours to keep the epoxy from sagging
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:15 PM
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now for the best part... I took it for a test drive tonight, I fitted the rod with a Orvis battenkill V mid arbor reel, loaded with wf9 sinking tip line..

she produced the first Bass of the season...
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Old 05-08-2006, 11:17 PM
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The end
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Old 05-09-2006, 07:51 AM
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Nice thread Roc!.... just awesome.. thankyou!!
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:11 PM
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Very nice thread Rocco. The only thing I would like to add is when building up your reel seat I don't like to use all tape. when it gets hot out the tape get sticky and unwinds . I have seen the reel seat turn. I would put cork fillers where you have the tape. If I used tape,I would just use a couple of turns over the cork if needed.
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:42 PM
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Sea-Sea,
the strength in the build up is in the epoxy, not the tape, the tape, like the cork is merely a dam for the epoxy, the most common mistake that leads to loosening reel seats is from not leaving enough of a gap in the tape AND from not using enough of the RIGHT kind of builders glue, that is also why it is important to LIGHTLY sand the blank to get maximum adhesion of the epoxy, a step that some rod builders ignore....

the cork is a good option for those wanting to go the extra bit , especialy in a stand up or HD jigging rod ,it is a bit of work reaming and installing cork rings which then must be turned to size on a lathe... they also make foam cast bushings to use as well.... for this build up, the tape is more than ample and will in most likely hood outlast the cork foregrip. and guides...
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Old 05-09-2006, 02:06 PM
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You can buy the cork fillers to fit the reelseat They come in different sizes. I have repaired many rods and when the reelseats turn, most of the time its becauce they filled them up with just tape. The tape turns on itself when it gets hot out in the summer. I have had some where the Capt. has drilled right through the seat and blank and put a nut and bolt in it so they wouldn't turn?
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Old 05-09-2006, 02:19 PM
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I've seen that stunt with the screw throug the blank... would have been eaiser to do it rightin the first plce instead of ruining a good rod....
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Old 05-10-2006, 12:36 PM
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as always i am impressed, you are a human database of knowledge, and you are able to use that knowledge.
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