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  #1  
Old 11-22-2009, 01:32 AM
BumpersLuck BumpersLuck is offline
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Default Making Bucktail jigs

I am looking into pouring and tying my own bucktails for a winter project. I figured it is a good place to start until I get the plug shop up and going. I have done a search a couple times and have found out that all white, white/red and chartreuse are the more popular colors. The question I have in looking at molds it what shape should the head be.
Does anyone have a preference:

bullet shape
the smiling bill (ie hot-lips)
Banana jig
spire point jig

Anyone prefer a company's tying thread?
They are going to be 1oz 1.5oz 2oz
Tied with 4.5in/5in bucktail with synthetics tied in for effect.
If it matters they will be fished off a boat.

Any help you can give is appreciated in advance.

JD
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2009, 07:37 PM
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Doublerunner Doublerunner is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Rip splitters for fast and strong currents. It's similar to a smilin' bill

Butter beans for cutting through a heavy wind that's in your face. It's kind of flat and more rounded of a head
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2009, 12:00 AM
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jerseystriper jerseystriper is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

For thread I have been using rod building thread as it's thicker and does not break easy as some other thin threads. The other threads I have used and also been told to use is mono/nylon, I forget the thickness though. For some reason 5 is in my head, what that 5 is for I don't know but I seem to remember 3 and 5 for some reason. Even the guy at the tackle shop sugested rod building/wraping thread and he/they sell jigs/sinkers as part of their main business-Newark Sinker also known as Fairfield tackle. Just remember lead is no game, you need to take proper precautions with it as it can kill you
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2009, 01:56 PM
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Roccus Roccus is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

I make 3 kinds, that cover any condidtion I might encounter.. My favorite are upperman style, smiling bills and bullet nose....

For thread, i use size A rod wrapping thread , the tread is treated with two coats of Sally hansens hard as nails.... the jig heads them selves are powder painted....if i didnt donate so many to the bottom, i'd epoxy dip them, but becuase I do give up so many I dont bother... sometimes I dont even paint them.. they still catch fish...
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2009, 10:02 AM
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dpohlson dpohlson is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

I've had good luck with this distributor

http://www.barlowstackle.com/jig-molds-heavy.html

I poured some lead sinkers last winter.

I'm probably preaching to the quire, but make sure you vent your work area well. I did it in my garage with the doors open.

I like melting and pouring lead. Some day I'll buy one of those electric melting pots. If you melt and pour much, I think you will quickly see the value of one.
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  #6  
Old 11-24-2009, 03:03 PM
allchumdup allchumdup is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

I recycle my old braid when tying and a dab of epoxy finishes them.----LOUIE
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2009, 12:23 AM
BumpersLuck BumpersLuck is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Roc Upperman style is can also be called a flat head style?

I have done some searches and I was wondering if you could explain what style head will give you what advantages over the other? It seems that many people on the board are all about plugs but everything I have read says that buck-tails are the most versatile and pretty productive to boot.

Dpohlson where on the south shore are you? I am about to pull the trigger on a melting pot. If you want to borrow it you are more than welcome. I am over in Scituate so let me know.


JD
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2009, 03:12 PM
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Roccus Roccus is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Uppermans are more like what some call a lima bean style... they sind quickly and excell in fast water because of their thin profile...I'll see if I have any pictures..
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:56 PM
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jerseystriper jerseystriper is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roccus View Post
Uppermans are more like what some call a lima bean style... they sind quickly and excell in fast water because of their thin profile...I'll see if I have any pictures..


For years we referred to them as Bean Bucktails, was only till a couple yrs ago I heard them called Upperman. It's really all in who you deal with. I think Do-It molds calls it a Flathead
http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=192

all do it jig molds http://www.do-itmolds.com/category2.aspx?c=7

I do sometimes use epoxy to seal my thread
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2009, 11:21 PM
BumpersLuck BumpersLuck is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

I am going to epoxy mine and also cure the powder coat for now. Itís the first time I have ever made a plug, spoon, and jig anything so I am going to have some fun with it.

I think there are some pretty elaborate bucktails out there (SPRO), are the patterns worth trying to copy or just keep it simple?

http://www.spro.com/ProductDetails.a...e=SBTJBK%2DALL

I am just thinking if the plugs some people make are so elaborate why canít the jigs?

Thanks

JD
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  #11  
Old 11-25-2009, 11:28 PM
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jerseystriper jerseystriper is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Quote:
Originally Posted by BumpersLuck View Post
I am going to epoxy mine and also cure the powder coat for now. It’s the first time I have ever made a plug, spoon, and jig anything so I am going to have some fun with it.

I think there are some pretty elaborate bucktails out there (SPRO), are the patterns worth trying to copy or just keep it simple?

http://www.spro.com/ProductDetails.a...e=SBTJBK%2DALL

I am just thinking if the plugs some people make are so elaborate why can’t the jigs?

Thanks

JD
Actually I did not look at the link but Do It has those fish style jig molds. I think they are the same price as the regular ones. If that's what the link shows. An easy way to do it is dip it in say white then use markers to color. After that epoxy them. To be honest I think those jig colors catch more fishermen then fish. I do like the fish style jig though

I checked the link and thats the one I refer too, some how I knew it had to be those. I also know some guys that use the Grip It dip, the stuff for tool handles to dip there jigs in. They claim they are a bit more durable color wise as the coating is rubber or rubbery(I think it may be a vinyl) than power paint
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  #12  
Old 11-26-2009, 08:15 AM
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dpohlson dpohlson is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

At the rate that jigs get donated to davy jones locker, I just buy simple black and white. We could start a color war, but I don't think color matters too much. you hate to see one of those fancy ones get hung up on rocks.

Also, if you've never done it before, try preheating your mold. If you don't, the lead will harden immediately on touching the cold metal, thereby plugging up the pore hole.

I used a plug in cook top / range top unit I had from college. Plug that in, set your mold on the cook top. Even at that, you could see where the layers of molten/solid/moten/solid. Didn't look good, but I was just making sinkers. One hell of an electric bill!

I advise heavy welding gloves too (burns)
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2009, 02:22 PM
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jerseystriper jerseystriper is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpohlson View Post
At the rate that jigs get donated to davy jones locker, I just buy simple black and white. We could start a color war, but I don't think color matters too much. you hate to see one of those fancy ones get hung up on rocks.

Also, if you've never done it before, try preheating your mold. If you don't, the lead will harden immediately on touching the cold metal, thereby plugging up the pore hole.

I used a plug in cook top / range top unit I had from college. Plug that in, set your mold on the cook top. Even at that, you could see where the layers of molten/solid/moten/solid. Didn't look good, but I was just making sinkers. One hell of an electric bill!

I advise heavy welding gloves too (burns)
I heat mold with a torch inside and out also the carbon(soot) helps with sticking. Here are some tips for pouring and some answers that for questions that will arise when you start.
I don't own my own lead furnace/melter so I either use my friends or just use my cast iron laddle and heat it with my acetylene torch(B tank and turbo torch), a propane would be fine but acetylene is much quicker. I have a couple B tanks and 1 tall sucker that I have not filled in a while. Actually we have about 20 tall tanks at the shop but I don't use them unless there as they are a pain to move around.

You can also make your own molds as long as you have a jig/body/template to work with using the proper high heat epoxy putty or mold making putty(needs to be baked). The putty is great for making lead minnows, just make mold in 2 pieces then clamp together and pour. they look great when using Flashabou body, mirage foil and markers-see pic below

PROBLEM SOLUTION
CASTING INCOMPLETE 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,12 OR 13
FLASH AROUND CASTINGS 6,8
INSERTS DO NOT FIT 6
PULL PIN ROD DIFFICULT TO REMOVE 9,10
CASTING LOOKS WRINKLED 1,2,3,4,7,12 OR 13

  1. Allow lead to heat longer before using.
  2. Pre-heat mold by making several castings without inserts.
  3. Pour a fine stream of lead directly into the cavity gate. Do not flood the sprue or fail to pour directly into the gate.
  4. Some electric units will not heat lead to maximum temperature when completely full. Try with only 1/2 full.
  5. Spinner-jig wire form and hook eye must be in the cavity center to fill properly.
  6. Wrong insert - check specifications.
  7. Try a different lead alloy Wheel weight or tire weight metal is the cause of many molding problems.
  8. Foreign object on the surface of the mold prevents it from closing tightly. Look for small specks of lead or other particles. Remove by carefully scraping away with a knife. Just remove the particle, not the surface of the mold.
  9. Oil pin lightly or smoke with carbon soot before first use.
  10. Remove rod quickly before the solidifying lead shrinks and grips the pin.
  11. Air trapped inside cavity. This can occur with a new, very tight mold. Test by placing a small piece of paper between the surfaces of the mold. A small corner of an adhesive label or gummed paper, like the seal on an envelope or corner of a postage stamp, will serve very well for this purpose by temporarily adhering to the molds’ surface. The paper will not allow the mold to close absolutely tight, and this small gap will permit air to escape from the cavity. If complete castings are obtained, leave the paper in place until the mold is broken in (usually 100-200 castings) and then remove it.
  12. Lead is not entering the cavity fast enough and lead is cooling too soon. Clean pour spout on bottom pour furnace. Large cavities may require ladle pouring to fill fast enough. Pour quickly.
  13. Smoke the mold cavities by positioning them just above a candle’s flame. A thin coat of black carbon soot will form which will help the flow of molten lead into the cavities and also make it easier to remove the cast lead parts
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2009, 07:49 PM
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dpohlson dpohlson is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

Well,now that I think back, maybe you just pour really QUICK! A fast pour is the key to a good molten lead mold. otherwise you wind up with what I call 'statification' or layers, but maybe your paint will cover up any lead imperfections. Either way, when you get a hundred unpainted ones, give me some! Zip on some chicken feathers or bucktail fur, and good to go.
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2009, 04:35 PM
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dpohlson dpohlson is offline
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Default Re: Making Bucktail jigs

How's the homemade jig coming along? I'm interested to see how you make out. I'm also interested in discount jigs, since I'm sure you'll have a ton real soon!
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