Guide Replacement

khary23 · #1 09-18-2007, 05:30 PM

When replacing guides how does one get the old epoxy off and is there a special epoxy that should be used when putting the new ones on.

MasterBaiter · #2 09-18-2007, 09:49 PM

I had a guide replaced at the tackle shop, I think they used light sand paper to remove the old epoxy and yes they had some special guide epoxy to put the new one on, sorry I can't be more specific, I didn't do the work myself. But if you find out let me know cuz I'd like to in the future.

khary23 · #3 09-18-2007, 10:25 PM

thanks for the reply. with all the do it yourselfers on this site some ones gotta know how to do it.

Striperjim · #4 09-18-2007, 11:46 PM

Gotta move it to the rod building forum. Khary. I took a rod guide apart last week only to find out it was broken clear through. Tsunami that I forgot about and left along side the car and drove off.
Im a novice at this too but the guys in the rod building forum know their stuff.

khary23 · #5 09-19-2007, 02:18 AM

thanks Jim

Ed White · #6 09-19-2007, 07:46 PM

khary,
I just had to do another guide on my St Croix, I used a cutoff wheel on a dremel type tool to CAREFULLY remove the old epoxy and thread, enough to get the old guide out, then warmed the residual epoxy lightly to soften it and scrape away the remains, then lightly sanded the area being careful not to remove any rod material. Quick wipe with an alcohol pad before installing the new guide, and I taped one foot of the guide in place while I wound the thread on the other foot....removed the tape, and wound on the other side. Somewhere there is a picture tutorial how to tie off the thread, I'll see if I can find it for ya. I used 30 minute epoxy over the thread and spun the rod till it set up, that's not the "professional" way to do it, but it has worked for me.

Have a look here to see how the thread is started then finished:
Wrapping a Guide

khary23 · #7 09-19-2007, 08:49 PM

thanks for the help Ed. seeing how I dont have a dremel could I just use 220 or 320 sand paper? or could I use paint stripper or a heat gun.

zimno1 · #8 09-19-2007, 09:27 PM

ed, taking the spey rod and i'm bringing my ugly stik googin rod up to the cape and it has the same application. no big production, just not figuring on doin much work as i will be shootin the breeze with gunny and them. chuck a chunk 5 ft in the surf and hang. nice to get away for a bit and clear my head.

junkmansj · #9 09-19-2007, 10:36 PM

Remove the guide by cutting the thread ON TOP of the guide foot ONLY,using a razor blade or razor knife. laying the blade flat on the foot and cutting toward the guide. unravel the remainder of the thread then use a Plastic knife and a LITTLE heat to remove the last of the Epoxy.
Rewrap the thread and then coat with a rod Building Finish,Flex-coat,Threadmaster,Crystal coat,Diamondite or one of the others.

After applying the finish you need to rotate the rod 1/4 turn every couple Minutes. you can take a cardboard box and cut Vee's in the ends and rest the rod in these you need to turn the rod for 2-3 Hours

Go to Rodbuilding.org and look in the library or seach the posts for more good info

JoeSixpack · #10 09-20-2007, 01:40 AM

Yup, see above.

I did not see which guide it is, but would add the following.

With a grease pencil, or the like, mark both the line the foot of the guide and center of the eye on your blank beyond the Flex coat to be removed, so you can put the new guide back where the bad one was.

Use masking tape on one foot to hold the guide in place while applying the wrap the the first foot. Preferably by rolling the blank. While wrapping, figure out a way to maintain tension on the thread. A bobbin for fly tying may do in a pinch.

To wrap lay the thread on the blank so it will be covered by a few wraps. wrap to where you would like to match other guides and whip finish the end.

Good Luck

khary23 · #11 09-20-2007, 01:12 PM

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try and find the thread, and epoxy then give it a try. I'll let you know how it turns out

FLOATSUM · #12 09-21-2007, 04:48 AM

In a pinch you can use the 2 ton epoxy. About as heavy as flex-tite and gives you plenty of time. A match or bic lighter beside the epoxy will remove any bubbles you may get. Wrap snug, not tight so you may move the guide for alignment before epoxy. Running the thread through a book will help keep tension for winding. To add more tension, stack books as req'd on top. Pack thread wraps every 3-5 turns with a toothpick to make it all tight and good looking, burnish with a cap from a bic pen or something simular before epoxy helps it to look better too.

JoeSixpack · #13 09-21-2007, 10:42 AM

Been a while for me. I forgot bubbles!!! Mix the epoxy slowly to minimize the bubbles.

junkmansj · #14 09-21-2007, 07:52 PM

I usually mark the position of the guide by measureing from the front of the reel seat to the center of the guide and then measure the wrap lengths.during handling and cleaning the marks of the pencil get rubbed off

Two Ton Epoxy might be TOO Brittle after it hardens which will cause it to Crack and break around the guide feet.

Go to Mudhole.com there is a Rod building tutorial Section Will teach you how to start and end your wraps

http://shop.mudhole.com/Rod-Building-101

http://www.ansonic.com.au/darrylt/binding.html (Look at this first)