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  #1  
Old 08-12-2007, 07:42 PM
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mully537 mully537 is offline
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Default belly grommets

how and when do you attach belly grommets to plugs? i never even used them till this year .i picked up some over the winter and have been drilling an undersized hole and pressing it in with a little super glue after the epoxy has dried(when rigging wire and hooks). a better way?
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2007, 09:31 AM
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Default Re: belly grommets

I always spot face (counter sink) my belly grommets, then before epoxying the plug, I install them with a small amount of 5 minute epoxy,clean out any excess with an old drill bit, when you epoxy the plug you can carefully sel in the grommets with the epoxy....a straw in the belly hole keeps the epoxy from filling the grommet...
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:57 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

nice tip with the straw,thanks roc.like i said i never used them in the past,i looked at it as an unnecessary step but they definately make a nicer looking plug.i managed to find some of that e-tex epoxy that you guys told me about in another post and cant wait to try on next batch,thanks again
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2007, 10:10 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

u learn something new everyday ehhh
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2007, 01:36 AM
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Default Re: belly grommets

Personally I'm not a fan of belly grommets - Putting the third different metal in contact with the hook causes much more electrolysis / rust then you get from just hook and swivel contact.

If you seal a soft wood with a non hardening product like boiled linseed oil they you need the grommet to keep the hook eye and swivel from eating into the lip of the swivel hole. If you use a product that hardens the wood, I heat seal with epoxy, then the edge of the swivel hole is strong enough to handle the movement of the hook eye and swivel and you can skip the grommet. Without the grommet, corrosion of the eye of the hook is greatly reduced.
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2007, 10:44 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudsy View Post
Personally I'm not a fan of belly grommets - Putting the third different metal in contact with the hook causes much more electrolysis / rust then you get from just hook and swivel contact.

If you seal a soft wood with a non hardening product like boiled linseed oil they you need the grommet to keep the hook eye and swivel from eating into the lip of the swivel hole. If you use a product that hardens the wood, I heat seal with epoxy, then the edge of the swivel hole is strong enough to handle the movement of the hook eye and swivel and you can skip the grommet. Without the grommet, corrosion of the eye of the hook is greatly reduced.
how is it that you heat seal with the epoxy if you dont mind me asking?
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2007, 03:42 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

Here's an post I put up on another site before Stripers247 was even created. Also, a few of the guys I shared this with and are using it in their plugs are Gary2, Chumbucket, Digger, Nib:

=======================================================

The heat bit was something I had kinda kept to myself and only shared with a few of the guys in my club but it looks like the cat's way out of the bag and the bags so tore up it might as well be tossed.

So here it is. Put the turned, milled wood into the oven at 250 degrees for 15 minutes to 1/2 hour depending on the thickness of the plug. Mix up a batch of epoxy, I've always used Envirotex only because it's convenient for me to find but Systems 3 is thinner and would likely work even better. Using a cheap throw away plastic eyedropper squirt epoxy down the through hole until it comes out the far end. Epoxy the belly holes and eye holes using a Qtip. Squeeze some epoxy into the lip slot and use a piece of sheet metal to push it all the way in. Give the entire plug a heavy coat, a 1" foam brush works well. If it absorbs to the point that it looks dull not shiny put some more on. Let it soak in until it starts to get tacky (10+ minutes or so) By this time the wood's not going to absorb any more. Wipe the plug down well with a paper towel removing all the excess epoxy. With a tight fitting metal rod clear all excess epoxy in the through hole. I've found that a metal shish kabob skewer works well for this. Make sure there's no excess in the belly holes and especially in the lip slot and eye holes. Let it cure overnight.

A final sanding with 400 grit and you've got a hard as rock totally waterproof , pretty much bullet proof plug body.

I was never planning on sharing this - You all owe me a plug now

Forgot to mention, I usually put the belly weight in when I hang the plug up to cure - locks it in real well.

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  #8  
Old 08-24-2007, 10:50 AM
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Default Re: belly grommets

I'll send you a plug but thats way more effort than I'm willing to go through to preserve a hunk of wood......
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  #9  
Old 08-25-2007, 11:13 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

Roc,
Epoxy sealing creates a bulletproof, totally waterproof plug, even after a blue's chewed through the outer finish. You can take a plug done like this and toss it in a bucket of water for a month. When you take it out it'll weight the same exact weight as when you put it in, not a drop of water soaks in.
As a bonus you no longer need grommets (which I hate) because the wood around the belly swivels is hard enough that it won't get chewed up by the swivel. You can also bounce it off the rocks without denting and cracking the topcoat.
After the topcoats of epoxy and paint are completely trashed all you have to do is give it a light sanding and you can refinish it again.

Yup, it's more work, but it's well worth it.
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  #10  
Old 04-12-2008, 11:38 AM
jdinklage jdinklage is offline
 
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Default Revising an old thread Re: belly grommets

I like this concept/way of fully sealing plugs, not that I have done it myself. When doing this, I am assuming you skip sealing the plug with BLO/mineral spirits. Would you also skip the sealer primer step with BIN and go right to a basecoat of paint? Doing it this way looks like more work, but you could go from sturning to painting quicker and have a longer lasting plug. It sounds like this would be a much better way to do things if you wanted to make better plugs, so why don't more people do it this way? There must be some kind of drawback.
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2008, 02:35 AM
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Default Re: belly grommets

No more BLO, no more brown spots where a pocket that didn't cure fully comes to the surface and ruins the finish, no more stink, no more fire hazard oily rags........
Paint the next day.

I still prime with Killz only because it takes less airbrush paint to finish when doing light colors. For black I don't bother priming.

The negative - it's a lot of work.
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2008, 11:55 AM
rclark12 rclark12 is offline
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Default Re: belly grommets

well this is completely new to me ... do you do this with all kinds of wood?... and does the wood need to be heated to the high tempature before epoxying for this to work?
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2008, 12:07 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

I only use AYC but some of my friends have used it on all different kinds of woods. It's better on softwoods then it is on rock maple.

The best part about it is that it makes softer unstable, inexpensive woods like poplar usable for plug making. Any other method and you risk swelling and splitting.
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2008, 12:19 PM
rclark12 rclark12 is offline
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Default Re: belly grommets

ok thanks...
it doesn't sound like to much more work mite give it a try on some soft woods.
want to make some needles and poppers for cudas in florida if i go this summer and i will probly try heat sealing those


thanks again

o yea how do you no how long to cook the wood
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2008, 04:49 PM
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Default Re: belly grommets

You'll start to smell the cedar and it'll be somewhat, but not too hot to the touch. You only want to open the pores in the wood so the epoxy will soak in deeper. Don't let it get so hot that you cant handle it.

Protect your hands, wear gloves. I use throw away latex, some guys use heavier gloves that they use over and over.

The fact that the warmed wood causes the epoxy to thin is a bonus - the deeper it soaks in the better.

Obviously put thicker pieces like pikies in first as they take longer then say needles.

Cook it too long and the wood can split.

I use the main oven in the kitchen, put a sheet of tin foil down to avoid getting an residual grease that could be on the rack onto the plug. My friend Gary2 picked up a toaster oven exclusively for doing this.

Do whatever works and always avoid grease of any kind, anywhere - it's the mortal enemy of the plug builder.
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