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  #1  
Old 12-07-2008, 03:49 AM
gregorjim gregorjim is offline
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Default Tailweight Mold

Good friend of mine who is a machinist got together with me and we designed this mold for making tailweights. I thought it came out pretty good.

Jim
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  #2  
Old 12-07-2008, 07:58 AM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

That's one neat looking mold.
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2008, 07:15 PM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

great job...i likey!!!
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  #4  
Old 12-08-2008, 12:41 AM
gregorjim gregorjim is offline
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Had some problems when pouring...Some weights were short pours...Finally used rat tail files & emory paper to round & smooth the pore holes entering the cavity ..Also use only pure lead...no lead with antimony ( wheel weights) or tin...This does'nt flow as well, plus the pull pins are really hard to extract..Another tip is spraying pins every third pour with WD-40 or Pam...Makes everything work smoothly...Jim
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:16 AM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Have you tried pre-heating the molds? Back in my lead bullet pouring days, I used to use a graphite based mold release. You might still be able to find the stuff.
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2008, 01:22 AM
gregorjim gregorjim is offline
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Yes...I usually heat the mold & once you've poured a few don't stop..I'll do a coffee can at a time for me & friends..Plus I use talcum powder for a release agent...Works fine...Jim
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2008, 02:50 PM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Sweet set up...anytime NJtackles out I know who im calling.
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Old 12-09-2008, 03:26 PM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

I make made own molds for specific belly weights and tail weights..... I apply a small amount of Vaseline to the pins in my tail weights, the pins are 1/8 galvanized wire,used for hanging suspended ceilings... the pins slide out slicker than crap through a goose...cooling the mold sometimes helps, as lead expands and contracts differently than steel or aluminum...
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Old 12-09-2008, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

I made one from Rock Maple quite a few years ago and still use it on occasion. (top)

Then about two years ago I had a machinist buddy custom drill a blank Do-It mold (bottom). Came out great. One side is for through wire weights, flip it and pour belly weights.
I made a set of pins from heavy gage stainless wire

To keep the lead from sticking I candle the mold, just a bit old fashioned. I'll try the talcum powder idea next time I pour.

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  #10  
Old 12-09-2008, 08:14 PM
gregorjim gregorjim is offline
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

If you make a simple mold that pours straight in the drilled cavity , you end up with a mushroom top.. The way we made this mold, you only use gate shears to clip off each weight, & they usually fit right in the plug..The pins are extractors pins he used in his shop..They are case hardened & pull out good ..I spray the pins every 3 pours with either Pam or WD-40 for easy extraction. Originally I had to Clean up all sharp areas where the pour enters the double cavities..At times it would Short pour the cavities..I used rat tail files & emory cloth to smooth out all the areas..Then made sure I was using only pure lead & not wheel weights or any with tin in it as this made pin extractions really hard..All pure lead pours easily and pins pull easy from the softer lead.. You can candle smoke the mold or use Talcum powder for a smooth cavity...And yes it helps to heat the mold or do a few pours..Once it pours good , don't stop..I usually have other plug builders helping on the production line..I put my double gas burner next to a basement door & have the garage doors open for ventilation..Extremly important...Jim
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2008, 11:16 PM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Graphite is the best mold release material, unfortunatly it is messy, if the pins continue to stick, a small amount of antisieze compound will work wonders....
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:42 AM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Found the graphite spray at: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=763758
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2008, 10:23 AM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickski View Post
We use that stuff by the 55 gallon drum in the Wilmington plant, the press/forge wing floor gets washed 3 times a day to try and keep the mess to a minimum...
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2008, 11:56 AM
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Ask your machinist friend if he can get you some molybdenum,commonly referred to as moly coat.
No better dry lubricant on the planet and once you apply it to a metal surface it's permanent.
Here's a link to a manufacturer,do a search for moly coat and it'll be no problem to find retailers that sell it in small amounts,a little bit goes a long way.

http://www.enduracoatings.com/ie_tooling.asp
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  #15  
Old 12-11-2008, 03:19 AM
gregorjim gregorjim is offline
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Default Re: Tailweight Mold

Thanks ,,,I try & get the moly coat locally..Jim
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