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  #1  
Old 10-06-2008, 09:04 PM
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Rickski Rickski is offline
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Default Taking the next step with Etex

Any hints on getting that perfect finish with Etex? You know the one that's perfectly smooth, with no imperfections and just right....

My process now is:

After paint, spray with Etek spray. Let dry. Put in spinner to warm up. Pour out equal amounts of Etex using a precision scale. Mix for a couple minutes. Exhale into cup a few times, and let the bubbles settle out. Apply to plugs with acid brush, exhale on plugs as well as use a propane torch to get some more CO2 in the air. Plugs spin at 8 RPM behind closed doors in a spinner kept about 80 degrees. Once dry, apply second coat. I'd like the first coat to "wet" out a little more.

I'm getting a nice finish, even though the first coat sometimes doesn't dry as smooth as I like. The second coat usually takes care of it.
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  #2  
Old 10-07-2008, 08:48 AM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

from what i've seen your finishing skills are miles ahead of mine and though i havent tried etex what has been working for me with both devcon and system3 is to heat the plugs(rather than the epoxy) before finishing them. so far my plugs have dried quicker letting them cool to room temp on their own.when it was warmer out i would use a fan to lower the room temp.seems the cooling speeds along the curing more than keeping them warm. (the devcon cured quicker with heat but the last thing devcon needs is something to make it set faster)
i'm still a hack but i'm learning.
can't wait to see your results (shameless attempt at ho'ing)
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:01 AM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

sounds like you got it down pretty well there rick..if what your doing works dont change anything. im sure the fish dont mind an imperfection here and there..a good plug is just gonna get beat up anyway from being fished hard.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:23 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

Sounds like the porocess I use, with the exception of all the exhaling, bubbles are rarely an issue.. if they are, a quick appication of a small torch flame does the trick... the other thing I do is heat the etex prior to mixing... this allws me to apply a thin coat that spreads uniformly and rearely needs recoating... in most cases a second coat is overkill and adds extra weight to the plug...
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:40 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

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Originally Posted by Roccus View Post
Sounds like the porocess I use, .
Hummm, I wonder whose posts I pay special attention to.

Do you heat the Etex over the light bulb in your spinner. There seems to be a fine line between warm and hot. I use the light bulb to heat, but once I heated to much and set it into a greatly accelerated cure. That batch needed some rework.
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Old 10-08-2008, 02:25 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

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Originally Posted by Rickski View Post
Hummm, I wonder whose posts I pay special attention to.

Do you heat the Etex over the light bulb in your spinner. There seems to be a fine line between warm and hot. I use the light bulb to heat, but once I heated to much and set it into a greatly accelerated cure. That batch needed some rework.
What I do is place the two bottles about 3-4" away from the light bulbs ( one on each side)while I ready the plugs for the coating.. by the time I have the plugs wired for the rotisseri.. the mixture is pretty thin.. it mixes and gasses well when it is that thin..... it greatly cuts down on the drying time and seems to enhance the cure..
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Old 10-08-2008, 06:44 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

With rod epoxies, especially on small rods, with small guides, I have another way of warming/thinning.
Get a bowl of hot water out of the kitchen tap. Mix the coating in a cup, set the cup into the bowl of water. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. The epoxy seems to stay fluid for an extended period of time with this process, and allows me to get thinner coatings under the bridges of small ringed guides. It also gives me a virtually bubble free application.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:14 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

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Originally Posted by Rickski View Post
first coat sometimes doesn't dry as smooth as I like. The second coat usually takes care of it.
Sounds like you're using glitter, if so that's the way it is and is why I normally use two thin coats on a heavily glittered plug.

Or it's dust - don't paint and epoxy where you turn.
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:25 AM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

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Sounds like you're using glitter, if so that's the way it is and is why I normally use two thin coats on a heavily glittered plug.

Or it's dust - don't paint and epoxy where you turn.

Sometimes my first coat looks like there was something on the surface repelling the epoxy preventing an even coat. At first, I thought it was finger oils, even though I don't have oily fingers...so I started wearing disposable gloves during scratch coat, loading onto spinner, at any point my fingers would touch the plug before epoxy. Even with gloves, I'm careful with what I touch as I work with the plugs. I even tried a very light 400 grit sanding after scratch coat, just before epoxy.

I do all my painting and epoxy in a different room than turning and sanding. My house has a garage under, so the lathe and woodworking tools are in the garage. All else is in the cellar. The spinner has plexi doors, and I'm anal about trying to keep dust down when epoxy goes on.
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Old 10-09-2008, 01:51 PM
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Default Re: Taking the next step with Etex

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Sometimes my first coat looks like there was something on the surface repelling the epoxy preventing an even coat.
Some paints will cause that, Lumiere metallics and Envirotex Lite for example.
After I called Lumiere to bitch it was explained to me by one of their chemists that it has something to do with different surface tensions causing one material to repel another.
I've found that a very thin coat rubbed in, all excess removed, allowed to completely cure, which takes 72 hours, followed by a normal coat solves the problem.

Another possibility is silicone contamination. If you find that the fish eye problem is happening with paints that you know work well with the finish then it's possible that somewhere in your shop you have a bit of silicone based oil that's getting onto your unfinished plugs.
It happened to me once and i went nuts until I finally broke down and cleaned every counter and tool handle in my shop (A two day job). I still don't know exactly where the problem was, but wherever it was the cleaning got it.
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