Zimms has good advice there for you.
And I'd like to add;
Assuming it's a graphite rod (seems they all are now) I'd suggest a S/A (Scientific Anglers - 3M) line for your considerations. I suggest a floating line. It's easier to "pickup", easier to see strikes, can be adapted (loop to loop) with regular lead core line for depth and depth control. You can "mend" them easier in currents, less likely to get hampered in weeds and rocks.
I'd also suggest a 10 weight floating line. I find that for some danged reason, graphite's are under rated by manufacturing ASMA standards. And the little added weight helps to "make the rod work" and carry in a stiffer breeze (in time it wont matter as much, you'll find a way to fly in a gale).
As mentioned by Zimm, you want your belly not too long. Actually, for most in the salt, the shorter the better. And naturally, S/A has a darn good answer (IMHO) for that. Their "Mastery Series Salt Water Taper" is a weight forward line with only a 23 1/2 ft. belly. The tapers are interestingly short too with only 6 1/2 foot up front (I cut them back to 2 1/2 ft.) and the rear is 7 ft. Totaling only 37 to 33 feet all together that you need to keep out of your guides before "shooting". That makes for speed, easy, nice in the wind, and a "God's send" when your in tight quarters like down in the rocks, etc.
With the huge plus of being easy as falling off a rock to learn and handle. However, with everything there is a drawback. On this, it's "gentle control". It's a real bitch to land gently, but most of the time you don't need gentle, you'll need "driving against the wind" brute force and little wind resistance. The smallish diameter is a great help.
Personally, I don't get fancy with leaders, they don't last long if your fishing the right spots anyways. 1 fish, new leader (my reasons are justified). I carry larger (abrasion resistant) bulk spools of Ande or Big Game (cheap Benny's stuff) in 20 - 25 - 30# premade leaders in a pouch, several are already tied on flies, thus the reason for the Loop to loop connection at the leader / mainline joint,,, quick change,,,, no cutting/tying/fumbling/loosing valuable "they're in" time. Simple overhand 1 1/2" loop. I'll tye in with surgeons for droppers but you'll not be wanting any part of that yet.
On the end of that you'll be needing a fly, DO NOT get the heavy ones. Get some that have a big profile but not a lot of bulk. We refer to them as "sparsely tied". What this does is Not hold water, which in turn is like throwing a boat anchor with a tooth pick (sucks believe me). Of course this part will frustrate the tar out of you. Most you'll fling will be made with enough material for tying 4+ flies! AVOID them at all cost.
Oh, on the fly line,,,, what you want is designated by " S/A WF-10-F Saltwater Taper" It's about a $60 line (I've bought them off Ebay for $5.00 to $20.00, but you need to watch for them) Sounds like a lot of $ for a line, but it's economical in the long run. I've had some for years and just retired them out of guilt (and a bargain). 3 of mine are set that way. Have one with a level line on it too for special occasions. You may want to investigate that at a later date too.
Something else I'll comment on. Balance,,,, I mean BALANCE! With the reel and line on the rod your really going to appreciate a Butt heavy rod. At the least, hold the rod like your getting ready to hurl. notice where your ring finger is, you want the balancing point of the outfit no further forward than your ring finger. It's a "fatigue" thing. Reason I mention that is because way to many reel makers are struggling to make a feather weight reel. I refer to them as "tendinitis inducers". Seriously, you get a tip heavy and your arm will scream in no time. Get that balance point back and it's like nothing in weight. Example, Pickup a 8 ft 2X4 on 1 end,,, a bitch isn't it? but in the center (balanced) it's squat. So you may want to keep that in mind.
Cripes, this is beginning to look like a novel or something.
Someone else will add more I'm sure.
Enjoy, it's different!