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Penn 704z

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148K views 253 replies 44 participants last post by  cunezstun 
#1 ·
Well i decided to do some rock hopping this fall in Montauk so i picked up a Penn 704z, did all the tricks, made my holes, painted it(no powder coat yet),got a sealed bearing, new handle,drag,drag knob,shaft and manual bail(not sure how this works) My question is do you guys pack the reel with grease? I mean really pack it tight or just lob a lot by the entryways? Thanks in advance.
 

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#96 ·
Wow RJ, those are beauty's, i'm about to buy a 710 greenie and am going to do that exact penn-staal look.

One question for you, what was the process you took to remove the paint? Paint remover then sand or what?

Did you drill the holes then dremel between them? That was my plan of action...

i forgot to mention, those things look efing SWEEEET!!! Awsome job dude, some of the best looking penn-staal's i've seen!!!:icon_thumright::icon_thumright:
 
#97 ·
Thanks Ghilie. Use the paint stripper to take off the top coat.The primer will not come off so a wire brush head on a drill is needed. Don't press too hard, you only wanna take off the primer. In any case you have to sand it smooth. I'll put up a pick what they should look like. Once the material is clean (wear gloves) i washed it with degreaser, rinsed off with very HOT water, and soaked in acetone spining it around now and then. Let it hang dry and repeated the process. Primer, paint, clear coat. When spraying stay light on the bottom lip of the spool, the inside of the rotor cup, and the area on the bottom of the rotor where the bumper fits in.

I'll post on drilling a little later. Something's up with my camera. Color's weird! confused.gif :frustrated:
 

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#98 ·
I suggest a drill press for doing all this. Drillling the spool is easyer than the rotor but always work with a template before milling out the metal. Ricksky sent me some templates wich were priceless for this job. Thanks again Rick!:adore: PM me your e-mail and i'll forward them to you. Even though they're measured for 704, they can be adjusted to fit any size. Main thing to keep in mind is Balance. What you do on one side you do on the other to keep it balanced properly. Using a soft measuring tape, measure the size in MM from one ear to the other. Divide that by the number of slots you want to mill out and make a template. Using small pieces of scotch tape, tape the template to the rotor and adjust until it's even and centered. Apply elmers glue to template and glue to the rotor. Let the glue dry a few hours so it won't slip. Using a center punch, mark the points on the ends a few times with center punch and then mark some more between them. This will guide you when you mill. You want the holes on the ends larger than the middle ones. Open the middle by working the drill bit on an angle(connect the dots), just make sure they're in a straight line. Use the grinding stone on the dremel tool to make your points(ends) to the desired size. Afterwards with a small fine file and then a bastard, open up the middle to the same width as the ends. Use the tape measure to measure the space between the slots and make sure they're even. Take your time! There's no room for error. If it gets stressfull at any time, walk away and go back to it later, this is where mistakes are made!th_th10_9_206.gif
Feel free to contact me with any questions as you go along. Last pic, bottom side of the rotor you can see where i milled out just the aluminum by the counterweight without loosing any lead to keep it balanced. :a_goodjob:
 

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#100 ·
Here is my 650SSm i messed around with, didn't have access to a drill press at the time, so it was all with a hand drill/measuring tape, no template so it isn't the prettiest of sorts but i wanted to try my hand at it before a touch my 710.

As for my 710 i will have a drill press and make a template (already made)

Rj, questions for you how do you measure for the holes on the cup?
 

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#104 ·
It is flat. Will the 704 template fit a 710? Secondly, does the counter weight come out? I unscrwed the screw that was in it, so i figured it has to come out, mabey i need more elbow grease?

Thanks for the help man.
 
#105 ·
704 template is a PDF file so it can be altered to larger or smaller when you print it out or you can do it manually with a geometric compass. I haven't worked on a 710 yet but it's the next size down from 704 so it shouldn't be a problem. I adjusted the 704 template to do my 706 and it worked good as you can see. The counterweight should not come out but i might be wrong. Don't force it. If you can, post a pic so i can have a look.
 
#107 ·
Good job on stripping that reel!:a_goodjob: PM me your e-mail and i'll forward you those templates. Might not need them for the bottom of the rotor cup but will work for the sides and the spool. Better way for the bottom is to get a compass that measures, i'll post a pic. Two bucks from school supplies and your in. When your ready i'll walk you through. I'm gonna hunt some Fluke tonight, maybe i'll get lucky with a keeper. :flyfish:
 

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#111 ·
My 704 runs on four bearings instead of one which makes it much smoother. I replaced the bushings with bearings so i have the pinion and main gear running on two bearings each. Should be about halfway into the thread. Don't think anyone did this before but it makes a big difference when you pack the housing with grease to waterproof it. Also the bushings wear down in time and it's a pain to replace them. I did sacrafice a few housings untill i got it right but it was worth it IMO. :icon_stirthepot:
 

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#112 ·
Hmm...I'm kinda lost here, but i'm for anything which makes these things smoother.

So your saying take the bushing out of the handle slot and replace it with a bearing? And that bearing on the main gear (pinion i think?), the black one, is that a totally new one, or just put new ball bearings in there? If so can you some how explain this! (i read the begginging of the thread, and i think i some what of a grasp on it).

And i just bought a 704 today!:icon_razz::icon_razz::icon_razz::icon_razz:
 
#113 ·
Don't take anything out yet. The handle screws onto the main gear. (Stainless steel shaft attached to the brass main gear) When you turn the handle, you spin the main gear that spins the pinion gear(all stainless steel), that spins the rotor cup and lays line on the spool. Top of the pinion gear spins on a bearing, bottom of the pinion gear spins on a bushing in the housing. The main gear spins on a bushing inside the housing and another on what i call the trumpet by the handle which is flanged( has a small lip). Bushings and main gear are made of brass. Stainless steel is a harder metal than brass, therefor the brass will wear out faster. When you have two metals rubbing together the weaker one will give way to the stronger. The bearings i pictured are sealed with rubber shields(black,blue)and packed with grease. They are not standard Penn bearings. If your gonna dunk the reel in the surf these bearings are ideal because they are sealed to keep out contaminants( dust, sand, and even water) so the balls inside the bearing will last a whole lot longer. If you stay with the bushings you need to clean or replace them for a smooth operation. Replacing is a pain to take out and to put back in so you would need to sand the inside with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper which you roll up and work the inside of the bushing. Only thing is as the material gets worn away(inside diameter of the bushing) the space becomes too large for the shaft that spins in it and the reel will have play in it. It took me a long time to figure out how to add the bearings. I guess if it was easy someone would have done this a long time ago!:lff3: Maybe over the winter i'll write up a detailed thread on this when i have more time and patience. Maybe i'll hook you up and do yours for the thread so i can put up pics as i go along. There's a lot of chit needed to do all that and i obviously have all that already. I sent you the templates, did you get'em? Go through the thread, i put up pics as i went along. Not detailed but but you'll get a better feel of what i'm talking about. :usflag: Can't wait for the USA to win again on saturday! World Cup is getting closer baby!:usflag: :wav:

BTW- i think pages 4 and 5 show the bearings!:icon_thumright:
 

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#114 ·
Wow, tons of info here...

Could i buy one of the pinion bearings of you? I plan on dunking the reel (ALOT), as for the adding of the second bearings, it would be really sweet if you could do that, i'll pay ya for materials/shipping/labor as well. For now, i'm going to work with what i have, meaning stripping the reel, cleaning the parts/drilling, etc... Is there anything else i could do to increase the smoothness of the reel without modifying the housings or the body of the acual reel?

Yes, i did get the templates, thanks a ton, just purchased the 704 today (with the swoosh), so i'm gonna do a cool looking design on thre side plate. As i said, i'm gonna do the basic stuff first, stripping/cleaning parts/seeing what needs to be replaced/ then drilling. Then we'll take it from there...

Thanks! Lets go USA!
 
#115 ·
Like i said, very lightly sand the inside of the bushings for now with fine grit sandpaper untill you get a shine and apply some oil before reassembly. That's all you can do without changing them. Main gear on these are hard to find brand new, they come up on e-bay sometimes so i would jump on one if it comes up. They retail for $30.00. also pack the housing with grease to protect everything inside. Scott's B&T in Jersey carries a lot of parts that you may need. PM me your name and address and i'll ship out a bearing to you. :icon_thumright:
 
#117 ·
Progress has been made as far as adding bearings and porting out these reels. If you would like the drilling templates i'll gladlly forward them to you as well. Just PM me your e-mail. I guess all gratitude should be forwarded to Rickski for the templates. It was his work not mine.
:usflag:
 
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