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Rock hopper spikes/lugs that last!

24K views 47 replies 17 participants last post by  lester berns 
#1 ·
Hello to all you nighttime red eyed zombie rock hoppers. For years I searched for wading boots that offered lasting traction on slippery smooth boulders and bubble weed. There are a lot of nice spiked boots with a hefty price out there, but no one has made a boot with lugs that last more than two weeks in the terrain we prefer to fish in.
Below are photos of a pair of two week old Korker sandels. As you can see they look two years old! The other photos are my modified wading boot from Chota after two months.


I have used Simms carbide tipped felt wading boot and the Korker guide wading boots in the past. The Simms didn't have enough traction in bubble weed and the Korker guide boots cost a fortune replacing 5-7 lugs with every outing.
Last year I bought a pair of Chota STL wading boot that except replaceable hardened steel screws. Those screws rounded over in no time and felt like ball bearings under foot. I searched the web and came across these carbide tipped screw heads made for snowmobiles. One of the companies, "Trail Grabbers", soldier carbide chips to the head of a screw. Awesome traction for jetty terrain and slopped surfaces due to it's low profile, where as a tall lug would tend to lay over to the side and loose it's bit into the stone.
The other company, called "Wearbars" makes a tall lug giving you a good bit into bubble weed. My boots have both types of lugs in the sole but that is going to change this year as I plan on using all tall lugs for my type of fishing
They are a buck a piece but in the right hard rubber or dense felt sole, they out last anything else out there. The only weakness is what they're screwed into as far as I can tell.
These 1/2" screws hold very well in any location of the Chota's dense felt sole and can't speak for any other boot out there. I've noticed the Chota is a heavy boot when wet and never really dries out from day to day, but they cost me some coin and I'm determined to get my money's worth out of them before I try these screws on another brand of boot.
I'm not saying Chota is the boot to get but rather make sure the screws hold well enough in the boots you choose before you go out in the field and loose them all.
Good luck out there this season.
 

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#2 ·
Great post. I do quite of bit of rock hopping, climbing and hiking with my waders on around here in upstate NY going after salmon, trout and bass. We have alot of fishing areas with shear shale and granite bedrock , getting around these spots without some sort of traction device is impossible.

I'm a big guy, so I have gone through quite a few different kinds of cleats before I found something that would last more that a few months of use (3 days/week avg). I started with the korkers like yours, after the first trip or two I had rounded or completely lost all of the steel spikes. From there I went to the HEAVY DUTY korkers with the carbide tipped spikes. They have now lasted me about 6 years, but they are heavy. REAL HEAVY. Too heavy.

I needed something lighter, so a few years ago I went to hodgeman gladiator soles. They have carbide tipped spikes too. The best part is that they must weigh half what the other korkers weigh. I got about 3 years out of the first pair, and now have about 30 months on the second pair. One of things that I found really help with the sandel type cleats is to screw them right into the heel of the wading boot. At $50 the gladiators aren't too hard on the wallet. I do like those Chotas though, and will be trying a pair at some point in the near future.
 
#3 ·
Nice post.

I tried some navy flight deck boots that work for rocks but they get laden with sand. despite gravel gaurds on the waders. Not very practical either.
Ive taken to using the cheap hodgeman boots and the k5000s with the mods below.


Regarding the korker k5000 sandals.
Korker modifications -
Jimmy D'Iamico writes in Zenos book that heal lift is the main culprit in cleat loss.
excerp
"In my opinion, the best remedy for this is to create out of a 1 or 2 inch wide x 5 inch long piece of heavy polypropylene webbing, doubling it over ( folding in half) and bolting it straight through the heel of the sandal. What you've now created is a much needed loop at the heel for which the laces run through."

He goes on to suggest addressing the possibility of missing studs by replacing them with stainless steel screws, fender washers and lock nuts. The wont give you as much bite as carbide but they will still be there when you need them.

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#4 ·
Regarding the korker k5000 sandals.
Jimmy D'iamico writes in zenos new book that heal lift is the main culprit in cleat loss.
excerp
"In my opinion, the best remedy for this is to create out of a 1 or 2 inch wide x 5 inch long piece of heavy polypropylene webbing, doubling it over ( folding in half) and bolting it straight through the heel of the sandal. What you've now created is a much needed loop at the heel for which the laces run through."

He goes on to suggest addressing the possibility of missing studs by replacing them with stainless steel screws, fender washers and lock nuts. The wont give you as much bite as carbide but they will still be there when you need them.

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Jim,
Not sure that excerpt was about the K5000. The K5000 has the nylon webbing with a buckle, not laces, and threaded inserts in the sole with replaceable carbide tipped spikes.
 
#6 ·
If anyone is ambitious to drill holes thru the soles, you could install these threaded carbide lugs with huge backer washers and nuts. Should hold strong to any type of sole.
Below are photos of Trail grabbers and Wearbars lugs incase anyone is interested in what they look like.
Photo 1, Wearbars
Photo 2, lug with backer washer
Photo 3, Trail Grabbers
 

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#7 ·
After losing a corker at PJ light I refused to spend another $60 on korkers, so I took my Proline wading boots (cheap, i wasn't worried about ruining them) and marked and drilled holes thru the sole. The sole isn't as thick or as heavy duty as I would have liked so I improvised. I was looking something rigid/strong with some flexibility. So I took a small bucket (Read: sheetrock drywall compound, small bucket green top) and cut it down the side and cut the bottom off. I cut four pieces of it for each boot, one under ball/front of foot, another for the heel both inside the boot and out (outer sole). Front piece was maybe 3" x 5" (i didn't measure) and heel about 3" x 3"...held them in place and marked holes with a sharpie...drilled them out and used 1/2" and 3/4" stainless steel bolts with good sized washers and nuts. Inner sole goes like this (when looking into the boot, what you see): screw head ontop of a good sized washer ontop of plastic piece...outside has the bolt extending thru the sole, thru plasic piece, thru another good size washer secured by a nut. I used 1/2" and 3/4" bolts (for the thicker heel) so that they were stubby enough to provide leverage with only about 1/4" of the bolt sticking out of the sole. With the sole insert placed inside the boot OVER the plastic and screws I seriously can't feel them from the bottom of my feet thru my stockingfoot. They are a little tighter than before, but I relaced and keep them looser with no ill effects.

Result: they work great. They did wear down but the only rocks this is noticeable on are the rocks at PJ. Those smooth round boulders are tough. The best part is the bolts are easily replaced with an offset screwdriver and socket...it has only been 1 season so we shall see. I'll try to get some pics up.
 
#8 ·
I have seen the Korker strap-on sandels and boots. The boots are costly and the sandles are heavy.

I was wondering if anyone has tried other strap-on sandels like STABILicers Anti-Skid Detachable Soles, Kahtoola MICROspikes, Monstergrips or YakTrax. These are really snow/ice cleats but the Kahtoola mentions rocks and the Stabilicers are similar to Korkers.
Here is a random link that shows the cleats listed above, any input would be appriciated :thu:

http://cozywinters.com/ice-cleats/ice-cleats.html
 
#9 ·
Funny u should mention this site, I ordered a pair of stabil icers, they confirmed my order then promptly sent me another email to tell me the product is on back order until the fall. Check out altrec.com, I got a pair of stabil icers from them for like $40 or so. I've used them a handful of times already without a problem, and u can buy replacement studs as well when they wear/break or what have you. Seems like a decent cheaper alternative, unless the straps break, in which case I'll have to come up with some inventive way to fix 'em. Good luck man.

StriperHyper ~ Will
 
#12 ·
Ive had the 1100's for two seasons and have only lost one spike, however my buddy purchased the 5000's and has lost 9 or 10 after 4 or 5 outings. The only complaint I have about the laced korkers is that the loops the laces go through have a tendency to break...not something you want to have happen with big waves around.
 
#13 ·
I have looked at the Stabilizers and for $35, how can I go wrong. They are strap ons and seem well made. The spikes can also be purchased and replaced. A local tackle shop had a pair, when I went to get them they were gone. He said he has such a good response from them he had ordered over a dozen more. He never orders a dozen of anything(very small shop) but he said almost 1/2 of them are already sold. I talked to a guy that bought the ones I was going to get, he said he loved em and they were to replace a pair of Korkers. He was also buying 2 more pair for some friends. Below is a picture of one of the ones they have. The sme company makes a few different pairs. I had just noticed that most places online sell them for around $43 or more(+ ship) I hope my loocal guy still sells them for $35-well those who snooze loose

Striperhyper from Maine has a pair also, maybe he will respond with some input as I think he has had them for the summer now.
 

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#14 ·
I bought a pair before the season started, didn't get to use them as much as I'd planned (cut the season short due to a shoulder injury) but they held up well under the conditions of rock hopping @ Biddeford Pool. They're a cheaper alternative to Korkers which seem to run at least double in price, but Ive never owned a pair so I can't give much feedback on them.


StriperHyper ~ Will
 
#15 ·
New concept for korkers engineers...

I own k-5000 korkers... I walk miles during outing over rough terrain... just got back from block island and walked so damn far. k-5000's weigh 2 pounds each. Is it really necessary to wear that giant, 2 pound rubber sandal just so there can be a few spikes under your feet??? there has to be a better "delivery" system for the spikes... (I know what youre going to say... I already know about the torrents with the removable soles... I tried them and I think they SUCK... not enough spikes& the "convenient" interchangeable soles pop off in rough terrain (block island). "sounds" like a great idea, having the option for 5 types of soles... but most guys dont need 5 different soles that all kindof suck... they need ONE that WORKS!!! I dont know where they field tested those interchangeable soles, but it was probably a trout stream for a week, and not where most surf-casters fish!!! I fish 60-70 nights per season...
HERES MY IDEA..... Why not simply make boots that have have a bottom that look just like the k-5000??? a boot that has the threads built directly into the sole? just screw in your replacement spikes and youre good to go... can I get an amen??? how has such a simple, practical idea gotten by their engineers???
 
#16 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

"I own k-5000 korkers... I walk miles during outing over rough terrain... just got back from block island and walked so damn far. k-5000's weigh 2 pounds each. Is it really necessary to wear that giant, 2 pound rubber sandal just so there can be a few spikes under your feet??? there has to be a better "delivery" system for the spikes... (I know what youre going to say... I already know about the torrents with the removable soles... I tried them and I think they SUCK... not enough spikes& the "convenient" interchangeable soles pop off in rough terrain (block island). "sounds" like a great idea, having the option for 5 types of soles... but most guys dont need 5 different soles that all kindof suck... they need ONE that WORKS!!! I dont know where they field tested those interchangeable soles, but it was probably a trout stream for a week, and not where most surf-casters fish!!! I fish 60-70 nights per season...
HERES MY IDEA..... Why not simply make boots that have have a bottom that look just like the k-5000??? a boot that has the threads built directly into the sole? just screw in your replacement spikes and youre good to go... can I get an amen??? how has such a simple, practical idea gotten by their engineers??? "
trying to find a good pair of korkers is like finding an honest nj politician. hopefully one of us will start to manufacture a decent pair of rock shoes. btw, own the torrent shoes and boots. have used the shoes for two seasons and like them alot, cant say the same for the boots. one season with the boots and the sides are falling apart, the soles are constantly falling out. was in the montauk rocks a few weeks ago and lost a sole. what a disaster! knocked on my ass and tried to fish anyway. kept on fishing and swimming until exhaustion. thank god for wetsuits. anyone know what the manufacturing cost of a pair of shoes like these would be??
 
#17 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Its a real pain in the ass wrapping the k5000's around the boots with duct tape.
(k1100's weigh less)
To be honest I didnt fish the rocks much this season for just that reason and the fact that the bait was stacked on the sand beaches all season.

Also I'm taking to modifying a pair of breathables. Why the heck do I need suspenders and a bib if Im trying to pull a dry top over or under this mass of stuff. Not including a belt, plug bag, neck lamp and boga.
Its especially tough if you have any kind of physical limitations. By the time you traverse the soft sand and get your feet undermined by the washouts your beat up pretty good.
Not to mention battling rollers and bluefish. Light weight gear is a must.
 
#18 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I have heard good things about the boots?

I bought a pair of safety shoes(at a discount store for 20 bucks) installed #8x1/2" hex heads in the sole coated the threads with Marine epoxy and have not had many problems. Next year I will be lightening it up more by using a pair of High top sneakers or something Mobility is crucial and I rarely lose studs. The last pair I made lasted close to two seasons and cost me a total of 30 dollars.
 
#19 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Why not simply make boots that have have a bottom that look just like the k-5000??? a boot that has the threads built directly into the sole? just screw in your replacement spikes and youre good to go... can I get an amen??? how has such a simple, practical idea gotten by their engineers???
Part of the problem with a pair of shoes or boots with threaded holes is that the holes will fill with sand, mud, dirt, etc. You would then need to clean out the holes to screw in studs. Well that's not to easy now is it? This is if I understand you correctly??? Like just screw in the studs when you need them?:dizzy::smiliedoh::dizzy:

No for you Amen here.
I will just stick to the $35 or $40 Stabilicers as I can strap them on when needed.
 
#30 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Part of the problem with a pair of shoes or boots with threaded holes is that the holes will fill with sand, mud, dirt, etc. You would then need to clean out the holes to screw in studs. Well that's not to easy now is it? This is if I understand you correctly??? Like just screw in the studs when you need them?:dizzy::smiliedoh::dizzy:

No for you Amen here.
I will just stick to the $35 or $40 Stabilicers as I can strap them on when needed.
I'll give an amen to that pal, I bought a pair of Stable-Icers and they seemed to hold up perfectly fine over the course of last season. No noticeable wear and tear on the lugs thus far, straps are all still in tact and they're pretty durable for being so lightweight. Granted i don't fish B.P. every day but I went out quite a few times last year without an issue. Just my .02 cents

StriperHyper ~ Will
 
#21 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Ah I see, Just get yourself a pair of Cabels Ultra light studded wading boots. They weigh around 2.4 lbs per pair which is not heavy and at $60 p/pair that's not bad. From what I hear they are pretty durable and if you don't like them just send em back or return. If you loose studs then just epoxy in a threaded insert to fit the titanium korker studs-well that's if the studs are not replaceable. I have also seen another pair out there that were very similar but had larger and more studs. I will be glueing in some inserts into my Carhartt boots now that I have beat them up pretty good-time for a new pair. I have several different size inserts and they make many more so finding the right size/thread should not be a problem. I use the inserts for solid core/Corian countertops

For even more $ you can get the Korker Guideboots which have the Omnitrax interchangable soles
 
#22 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

For even more $ you can get the Korker Guideboots which have the Omnitrax interchangable soles
I have a pair and I've worn them once.
They are useless on slimey rocks. They might be Ok for the average river but not for extreme terrain. I even own some air craft carrier water shoes that fit over the booties. They are great for non slip but they get laden with small sand and pebbles.
You still need the cleats under them too.
I think the best way is to fashion your own or live with the weight.
 
#23 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I have a pair and I've worn them once.
They are useless on slimey rocks. They might be Ok for the average river but not for extreme terrain. I even own some air craft carrier water shoes that fit over the booties. They are great for non slip but they get laden with small sand and pebbles.
You still need the cleats under them too.
I think the best way is to fashion your own or live with the weight.
I don't understand as the Omnitrax interchangable studded rubber sole for the guide boot is almost them same if not the same as the sandles. Unless you mean the Cabela's boot or the Korker studded felt sole then I understand

http://korkers.com/technology/?p=omnitrax

Korkers Omnitrax interchangable studded sole

 

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#24 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Ok never mind - the ones I have they dont make anymore.
They have the outsole crap but only the felt and rubber were available then. It looks as if it is improved from the hiking boot style I owned but now they use the key to pop them in and out. The older styles just slid in and out.
They offer the cleat style now but it looks like only 14 studs.
Someone try them and let us know.
 
#25 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

hers a pic of the newer stlye that uses the key tool, bought them first week of july. The outsides are falling apart, and the soles flip out from time to time. Fine sand gets under the insert, builds up and eventually pushes the insert out.
Brown Wood Bat Tints and shades Art
Brown Wood Art Eyewear Tints and shades
 
#26 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

hers a pic of the newer stlye that uses the key tool, bought them first week of july. The outsides are falling apart, and the soles flip out from time to time. Fine sand gets under the insert, builds up and eventually pushes the insert out.
View attachment 12154 View attachment 12155
I was wondering about that and thinking that could be a problem. Sure enough, you think they would have tested them on sand.
I quess it's time to pony up and buy a new set of Carhartts so I can stick screws in my old ones. These are the best boots I have ever owned, been to hell and back and they are still going strong. Plus it's hard to find 13 EE or wider boots anymore
 
#27 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

those boots suck... My friend was wearing those in jamestown one night when the entire side split open... he had a long walk back twisting his ankle as he was basically wearing the boot AROUND his ankle... But thats not even the point of this thread... I am hoping to find a boot that does one thing... simply has korker studs on the bottom.. I dont want to change the soles to something else every hour, I dont want lousy options... I simply want korker spikes.... on the bottom of my boots....... without the rubber....... and without optional gimmicks....... Screw it... that is my winter "goal"... I am going to come up with something.
 
#29 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

An alternative to Korkers.
Here's my new wading boot for this season. The Simms Rivershed boot with 45 Wearbars carbide lugs in each sole.
Enjoy.
Wow those are nice. Where did you get them and for how much. Are they holding up well? Did you add the lugs, the ones I see don't have them

I have also been looking at a pair of Chotas. They seem a little better built then the Korkers
 
#32 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

David - Im gathering that the Snowmobile lugs are better than the simms hardbites? Hard bites
I can't say that would be true Jim, never tried them. I see the link, I would have to say that the lugs are pointed and the hardbites are not.
I do know that Korkers carbide lugs crush easily against the granite boulders and the snowmobile lugs do not. All those lugs in the photo are what I used on my Choats wading boots last season. The choata's worked well but turned out to hold water and became heavier than Korker sandals. So I'm trying the Simms this season.
 
#33 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I use the Korker Stream Born wading boots.I like em but I want more studs in em.There fine in fresh water but once on a jetty I was sliddin on the rocks.I don't see em working on submerged boulders,or on anything covered with vegitation.

Those simms boots are sick!!!!!They seem like they would stick to about anything.

FC
 
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