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Rock hopper spikes/lugs that last!

24K views 47 replies 17 participants last post by  lester berns 
#1 ·
Hello to all you nighttime red eyed zombie rock hoppers. For years I searched for wading boots that offered lasting traction on slippery smooth boulders and bubble weed. There are a lot of nice spiked boots with a hefty price out there, but no one has made a boot with lugs that last more than two weeks in the terrain we prefer to fish in.
Below are photos of a pair of two week old Korker sandels. As you can see they look two years old! The other photos are my modified wading boot from Chota after two months.


I have used Simms carbide tipped felt wading boot and the Korker guide wading boots in the past. The Simms didn't have enough traction in bubble weed and the Korker guide boots cost a fortune replacing 5-7 lugs with every outing.
Last year I bought a pair of Chota STL wading boot that except replaceable hardened steel screws. Those screws rounded over in no time and felt like ball bearings under foot. I searched the web and came across these carbide tipped screw heads made for snowmobiles. One of the companies, "Trail Grabbers", soldier carbide chips to the head of a screw. Awesome traction for jetty terrain and slopped surfaces due to it's low profile, where as a tall lug would tend to lay over to the side and loose it's bit into the stone.
The other company, called "Wearbars" makes a tall lug giving you a good bit into bubble weed. My boots have both types of lugs in the sole but that is going to change this year as I plan on using all tall lugs for my type of fishing
They are a buck a piece but in the right hard rubber or dense felt sole, they out last anything else out there. The only weakness is what they're screwed into as far as I can tell.
These 1/2" screws hold very well in any location of the Chota's dense felt sole and can't speak for any other boot out there. I've noticed the Chota is a heavy boot when wet and never really dries out from day to day, but they cost me some coin and I'm determined to get my money's worth out of them before I try these screws on another brand of boot.
I'm not saying Chota is the boot to get but rather make sure the screws hold well enough in the boots you choose before you go out in the field and loose them all.
Good luck out there this season.
 

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#34 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I knew those lugs looked familiar. I had used them years back on my sled when I used to ride on Winnipesaukee, Sebago and Moosehead along with many other frozen lakes throughout New England. My buddy lost his sled on Winni as we used to run the open water but due to him not having studs he did not get the speed needed that one time. Sucked to be him that day

Wow I was surprised to find the site showing the studs in wading boots
 
#35 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I have not seen them around for years but years back I would use a pair of golf rubbers that would fit right over your shoe or boot easy to put on and easy to take off and when a spike wore out would just replace with new spike or a small nut & bolt
 
#36 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

google an item called KOLD KUTTER Studs. they are made for dirt bike tires for ice racing... the head is pocketed so ea, corner of the screw acts like a small spike. 6 spikes per screw. a bag will last you a long time ( or untill or your freinds take them ) I have about 20 per foot screwed into the bottom of a pair of work boots.. they work great on the rocks and have used them for years. just get the shortest ones so you don't screw through the bottom of the boot.
 
#38 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

Lester Burns said:
I like the wearbar idea... do they stay put??? if so, thats what I'm looking for.
We'll see but it'll cost us an extra $50 to find out
Wader studs - Best Grip
Wader Stud Pack
Includes: 28 studs & 1 Install Tool
$44.93 per kit
or
Wearbars
Carbide Stud .500" (48/pack)
$46.95
 
#40 ·
Korker Modifications

Yes, I'm doing the same lester. The topic is getting a lot of play in all the forums. Most rockhoppers are looking to do some kind of modifications to their korkers or for some other kind of lightweight boot system with tractions that wont be a major pain in the ass.
Myself I'm going with the Simms Rivershed with the vibram sole and the Aggressive 3000wk28's from best grip if I can get em. It also depends on the sole thickness the grip studs penetrate 7.9mm. - Otherwise its the hardbites together with their star cleats. (add $70 more bucks to the $180 price tag.)

From reviews it seems the rivershed is true to size ( 1 up)
David started this topic here a while back it's probably worth linking to it for the read.
http://www.stripers247.com/phpBB2/showthread.php?t=16764

 
#41 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I emailed best grip based in italy... they have a US based distributor... I have the information... I hope korkers engineers are listening... I know we are a small niche market, but its not THAT small! The interchangeable korker sole system does many things in a mediocre manner... jack of all trades, master of none... I need boots/spikes for one reason/application only... I have separate boots for playing with trout!
 
#42 ·
#43 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

UPDATE

The vibram soles are 6mm. So the wearbars and waderstuds are pushing it for that light of a shoe.

FYI
If anyone wants to resole any boot with the vibrams for the hardbites
Rocky Mountain resole will do it.
Resole cost is $70 plus $15 return shipping.
boots@rmresole.com
 
#44 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I just bought a pair of the Korkers light wading boots. Only complaint so far is no spikes on the toe portion of the boot. The Mossy Rock insoles are very grippy and hold me in place. I will let everyone know how they work out through out the season. Generally i will tear through a pair of customized boot a year.
 
#45 ·
Re: New concept for korkers engineers...

I've been using the k1100's for three seasons now and fortunately have only lost 1 spike, but my major problem is getting the damn things to stay on my boots, as Jim mentioned before using duct tape is a PIA and as I have learned if the surf is rough it will still rip them off after awhile. I recently removed the back straps that come up the back side of the wader boots and now just use heavier laces. I never liked those straps, first one broke during the first season at M. where a few 247 members watched my googan butt get kicked right off the rock I was standing on. Anyhow, I have to give the 1100's credit in that I've seen people lose to many studs on the 5000's after a few trips...anyone else have the same issue?
 
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