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Testing between layers ??

3K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Steve/NH 
#1 ·
..Is there any way to tell after priming that the sealer has not completely dryed? If so, is there any easy way to fix it? I assume, sand it back down to the sealer, reseal and let dry.
 
#2 ·
..Is there any way to tell after priming that the sealer has not completely dryed? If so, is there any easy way to fix it? I assume, sand it back down to the sealer, reseal and let dry.
if the sealer has not completely dried, it will be most obvious on the end grain, if you can scratch the primer off or it comes off eaisily, you know you have ashesion issues.... at that point, you can heat the plug with a hair dryer... any uncured sealer will imediatly rise to the top, wipe it clean, sand with #80 and allow some extended dry time... the best solution is to never let it happen in the first place, be patient and allow each process to cure before moving to the next one....
 
#3 ·
The best part of linseed sealing is when there's a small void inside the wood where the oil never dries - then a few months to a few years later it works it's way back to the surface.
Ever see a plug with brown stains under the finish? That's what happened.

Which is why I won't touch the nasty stuff and stick to the epoxy heat sealing technique. You have to be an idiot to screw that method up (and I should know :whistle:)
 
#5 ·
Damn Lu, I couldn't have tee'd that one up any higher and you just let it pass you bye ??

Yer slippin.
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys. Hopefully I'm OK...I read a thread from Roc after priming of corse, that he lets his sealer dry for a week. This is my 1st batch of plugs ever so I'll post some pics when I'm done. The 1st two are tinker macks.... I used the 60/40 blo and ms, let dry for 24 hours, wiped them down and let dry another 24. Seemed dry to me... Primed with bin, let dry another 24, painted with acrylic tonight....tomorrow laquer finish. I can see how this could get addictive. I like the way they are coming out.

Thanks again
 
#8 ·
I found when I used to use the blo/ms sealing method that a good way to determine if it is dry is to give a light sanding. If you use a fine paper and you just get dust w/ no clumping then it usually is dry. If I think it was dry then I would apply a little heat to it. And as Roc said if there is any undried sealer it will rise to the surface.

I like Roc and Lu also now use epoxy to seal the plugs. It's pretty hard to mess that up. Well unless your Sudsy....LOL

Lu have you used the Etex yet? If so how do you like it
 
#10 ·
Yeah Roc I read your trying Tung oil now and feel it may be as good as the BLO method. I actually bought tung oil from reading that post but in the 11th hour decided to go with what some have called "the proven method" od BLO and MS.

We'll see...being these are my 1st plugs ever I have pretty low expectations anyway so if they last me 1/2 a season I consider it a win.

Urethane is done and hardware goes on tonight.

How long does it take for the tung oil to dry?
 
#11 ·
Yeah Roc I read your trying Tung oil now and feel it may be as good as the BLO method. I actually bought tung oil from reading that post but in the 11th hour decided to go with what some have called "the proven method" od BLO and MS.

We'll see...being these are my 1st plugs ever I have pretty low expectations anyway so if they last me 1/2 a season I consider it a win.

Urethane is done and hardware goes on tonight.

How long does it take for the tung oil to dry?
I've been using it over a year now... after extensive research and testing....I'm beyond pleased with he results....especially with hard woods...
 
#15 ·
Thanks. My son ad I had a blast making them. Can't wait to do another batch. Unlike many of you hardcore plug makers, I bought the kits from Saltybugger:a_goodjob:...I think this will be the way to go for a while. Fairly reasonable cost, and good projects for my son to keep him busy.
 
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