Like Long Island and the Rhode Island coastline, Cape Cod is littered with surf fishing spots, from the great Cape Cod Canal that separates the Cape from the mainland at its western end, to the northern terminus at Provincetown. Bourne, Chatham, and Eastham all have their hidden hot spots-just mention Cribin, the Jungle, Aptuxit and the Portigy Hole and Cape sharpies will swoon-but there are precious few places in the world of surf fishing where the prime fishing spots are as accessible, spacious, and overrun with striped bass as the long stretches of open sand beaches of Truro and Provincetown. For more than 25 miles, from Race Point to Ballston Beach, thousands of acres of federal lands have ensured open access for anyone from anywhere to some of the finest surf fishing the Atlantic Ocean has to offer. And as the highways and ferries unclog at the end of summer, the Cape becomes an easy jaunt for roving surf fishermen from New Jersey, Long Island, and Rhode Island. In few places has government foresight been more deftly applied than in the 1961 creation of the Cape Cod National Seashore that all but halted the sprawl of human development into 43,000 acres of ancient dunelands. The miles of towering dunes and rolling expanses of untouched scrub pines and gorst bushes are one of the most beautiful sights on the East Coast, and warrant a trip to the northern Cape on their own, without a mention of the fishing that takes place at their edges. From most of the lower states, and only a couple for those from eastern Rhode Island, Provincetown is only about a four to five hour drive depending on how many tackle shops one stops at. The downtown Provincetown area is a tiny crescent shaped village with narrow streets tucked into a barely two-mile stretch of hillside inside the very westernmost curl of the northern cape. Like many of surfcasting's hallowed seaside grounds, Provincetown is the heart of a booming tourist industry that jams its streets and highways in the summertime with vacationing city folk. But come Labor Day, the Cape empties out and leaves all the amenities demanded by the summer crowd in search of a new revenue source. For visiting surf anglers, this means reduced hotel rates, empty restaurants, and easy navigation without the traffic tie-ups. Even weekends in Provincetown in September and October are relatively quiet and hotel rooms are generally easy to come by. For a couple of buddies looking to fish three tides a day and score a shower, nap, and some grub in between, there are plenty of discount hotels and motels that almost always have ample availability once the cool northerly breezes of early autumn start blowing. But for those of us who must or want to sprinkle some great fishing into a short getaway with our spouses, Provincetown's ubiquitous luxury Bed-and-Breakfasts and gourmet restaurants offer a rare opportunity at mixing rough and tumble fishing with posh vacation amenities. All the B&Bs offer greatly discounted rates for the off-season-which basically begins immediately after Labor Day-and even greater bargains for mid-week stays. Because of the demands of the wealthy summer visitors, these converted houses are top quality and flush with pampering features like hot tubs, water views, and huge four-poster beds. And shopping along Provincetown's main drag is more than ample to keep a wife disinterested in sitting in a beach buggy on the beach busy during the daylong blitzes that are taking place barely a mile away. There is also an AWESOME nine-hole golf course set right into the dunes, Ireland style, which is only $12 in the off-season, so bring your short sticks too. When heading to the beach, the choices of destinations are as numerous and varied as the kitschy shops downtown. The entire length of the National Seashore area is open to fishing and much of it is accessible to beach buggies. Even anglers without four wheel drives can hit most of the top spots too thanks to the large beach parking lots scattered along the entire length of the park. To drive on the beach you must purchase an oversand permit at Race Point Park, the northernmost beach on the Cape and the entrance to the most popular fishing spot. The fee for a one-week oversand permit was lowered in 2005 from $45 to just $25. Be sure you have all your required safety equipment-jack and board, tow rope, shovel, etc.-because the park rangers are meticulous about checking for everything required even in the pouring rain--and they won't give you the permit unless you've got the stuff, no exceptions. While there are certainly a lot of fishermen flocking to this Mecca of striped bass fishing in the fall, the entire length of the National Seashore is comprised of tall sand beaches so crowds are rarely a problem. Even when the hot spots are elbow to elbow, there is none of the hackle-raising mayhem that can grip the hordes during a blitz on Montauk's rocky shores and it's not as dangerous. RACE POINT Race Point is the Montauk Lighthouse of surf fishing in Provincetown-and there happens to be a beautiful historic lighthouse there too. But unlike the steep stone revetments "under the light", Race Point offers a long meandering stretch of small points, bowls, and bars all of which hold some fish at almost any time and tons of fish on certain days. The point itself sort of resembles a miniature version of the entire Cap-a gradual curve running north and then hooking sharply west toward Cape Cod Bay. The bulk of the point faces basically north, and in fall is battered by the northeast and northwest winds. Which is a good thing because as the water piles up on the shallow offshore bars, the bass come hunting. The spot know as "the Traps" for the fyke nets that were once set from this stretch of beach, is favored in the northeast winds, and the Lighthouse area in the northwests that usually follow. |
What the darter is to Montauk and the metal-lip is to Rhode Island, the needlefish is to Cape Cod. Rich Wood of Nelson's Bait and Tackle in Provincetown-you will not find a more friendly, knowledgeable and eager to share up to date and accurate local information tackle shop owner anywhere-says that more than half the striped bass ever caught in the Provincetown-Truro stretch probably fell to needlefish, and the awesome display of old versions of the local favorite that hang on the walls of his shop is testament to the history of the plug in the area. Race Point is needlefish territory. When the winds start to howl and the fish are in the suds, the relatively heavy and very streamlined needles get the distance needed. Pink and black seem to be the colors of choice up there, especially when the heave churns the water into soap. Though not many guys cast them up there the way we do in Montauk, bucktails will also take fish, and when it is calm, the big metal lips can take some slob fish at night too. OCEAN BEACHES For those without four-wheel-drive or the urge to fish with the masses, the upper Cape offers a rare level of access to great fishing just steps from paved parking lots. Between Race Point and southern Truro-the next town down the arm of the Cape from Provincetown-there are six bathing beaches operated by the National Seashore or the town of Truro that require no parking permits of any kind and are open to fishermen 24 hours a day. The beaches are tall and flecked with points and hollows that consistently hold fish, especially at night. The first beach south of Race Point is High Head. Trucks with oversand permits can make the nearly eight-mile ride along the beach, bordered only by undeveloped dunes. Erosion and fenced off piping plover nesting areas can make certain portions tight at high tide, but the park rangers will let you know if the traverse to High Head is possible. Next in line, about four miles south, is Head of the Meadow Beach, accessible off Route 6-the main highway that runs the length of the Cape-and clearly marked with a large sign. The beach has two very large parking lots that bring you within two nice sand points. In hard northeast and east winds the bowls can hold tons of fish. Continuing south on Rt. 6 are Long Nook Beach, Coast Guard Beach, and Ballston Beach. All have ample parking in the early morning and evenings and offer easy access to the open beach. Plan to make short 5 to 10-minute walks along the sand to various points and hollows, fishing along the way. The bars along these beaches are well offshore and knock the waves down so the actual shore break is not heavy and there are nice deep channels between them and the beach that are buffet highways for hungry stripers. While plugging these sand beaches during nor'easters can be hot on needlefish and darters, most of the big fish taken here are caught on eels at night. The smooth sands make it easy for a caster to work his way along a stretch of beach tossing live snakes into the knocked down surf. At sunrise there will be plenty of locals soaking sandworms and whole herring on dead-sticks so give them room, but otherwise you will find the beaches wide open. HERRING HARBOR The upper Cape isn't just about the big surf sticks. Fly fishermen and light tackle casters can get in on the fun as well, and in about one of the most benign fishing locations you've ever laid eyes on. Herring Harbor lies about a mile west and south of Race Point, at the mouth of where Cape Cod Bay and the ocean currents meet. The beach is a classic bay beach: wide and low with nary a ripple of surf breaking at its sandy shores. A huge parking lot runs its entire length making it easy to chase the marauding schools of bluefish and schoolie stripers that march up and down in the mornings and evenings. The water slopes slowly enough that fly casters can wade out about 30 or 40 feet to get the extra length to reach some of the more distant schools of fish, but when the fall rainbait gets packed into the beach, the fish are often right at edge of the sand. The fishing is primarily for small bass in the 10 to 15-pound range and bluefish of all sizes, though the occasional false albacore will pop up from time to time. The long and short of it is, if you are a serious surfcaster you owe it to yourself to visit one of the sport's birthplaces and most productive stretches of shoreline. In this day and age of increasingly stringent access limitations and acrimonious relationships between locals and out of town fishermen, you will be hard pressed to find an area more welcoming to visiting surfcasters than the Provincetown area. The accessibility of the upper Cape is unparalleled and the comforts provided by the friendly locals will please everyone and surprise most. You can leave your Korkers at home, make due with one well-stocked plug bag for an entire week, and make your trip just about as economical or extravagant as you want. And if you hit it right, you could have some of the best fishing available anywhere. For more information on fishing at Provincetown and Truro, email Nelson's Bait and Tackle at: rich@nelsonsbaitandtackle.com. |
